Friday, July 25, 2003

Returned Wednesday from eight days of vacation in Paris. As a city resident in the US, the most striking contrast is how tawdry US cities look and feel compared with Paris. From the efficiency of the Metro to the wide range of clean, tasty eating options, everything is at a completely different level there. No potholes. Even after the traditional start of the summer vacation season, an incredible range of cultural opportunities. Contrary to standard prejudice, friendly service almost everywhere (it does help to speak French, even haltingly). Two minor but interesting changes from my last visit in the mid-90s: non-tourist looking obviously non-French young people, often speaking accented French with their friends; many young people using roller skates to move around the city, a good fit for an almost flat place with excellently paved roadways and sidewalks, bike lanes everywhere, although pretty scary given aggressive Parisian driving. Something that hasn't changed as much as I expected: Net access is still difficult to find and expensive. Trip highlights: the tapestry series Dame à la licorne in the Musée National du Moyen Age; the Impressionist painting collection at the Musée d'Orsay, an extraordinarily pleasant museum (in contrast to the crowded, oppressive Louvre); the many nice restaurants and cafés around Marché St. Germain and Place St. Sulpice; a free Sunday concert at the Notre Dame by Finnish organist and composer Harri Viitanen, including his imaginative Chorale-Fantasy on “Wachet auf!, ruft uns die Stimme” and a great interpretation of BWV 542; still the best bookstores in the world; Tardi prints; just walking the streets and sitting in cafés. 8:21:25 AM