Allan F. Karl: Good Juice

Good News For Business. And For Wine Enthusiasts!

Tue, 17 May 2005 08:04:54 GMT

Did you hear the news today. I love Supreme Court rulings that I agree with. Doesn't everyone? Today a narrow margin of 5-4 the Supreme Court overturned state liquor laws in New York and Michigan that gave preferential treatment to in-state wineries. Both states permit in-state wineries to ship directly to consumers, bypassing both retailers and wholesalers." But the law goes way beyond what's happening in New York and Michigan. Because an additional 15 states currently prohibit all direct-to-consumer wine shipments. They are Alabama, Arkansas, Delaware, Kansas, Kentucky, Maine, Maryland, Mississippi, Montana, New Jersey, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, South Dakota, Tennessee and Utah. If you've ever visited Napa Valley and didn't want to risk your wines getting cooked in the blazing hit of the California sun and faced the rude awakening that you couldn't have those wines shipped to your home in these and other states, you'll appreciate the changes that will not only allow you to choose for yourself. Plus those small wineries that depend on direct sales will finally not have governmental interference preventing them from running a successful business. Bravo.

Wine Storage. SubZero. And Changing Lightbulbs.

Fri, 04 Feb 2005 09:23:28 GMT

So it's nothing new to readers of The Digital Tavern that I have a passion, penchant and a certain proclivity when it comes to wine. Good wine. But this fondness comes with a price. Back in the day it was such a find when one uncovered an amazing value wine for less than $10. These days $50 seems to be the value wine. But I'm getting away from myself. It's not just the price of wine. It's the storage. Sure. It always starts out with a silly wooden rack from Cost Plus or Pottery Barn. Then one moves to a dorm size wine fridge that you might find at Costco or Home Depot during a season. Then you graduate to larger units. Soon enough you're joining a club that provides storage for wine collectors in temperature and humidity controlled self-storage lockers. But these off-site lockers are merely overflow for what storage you need at home. Here at home I have storage for about 350 bottles of wine. For those bottles you don't want to open on a whim after sharing a couple with friends, it's a nice reassurance that the real special bottles are out of reach and as such you won't wake up the next morning with drinker's remorse finding that one special bottle empty and gone -- not even a memory to remind you. Ahhh. But this doesn't happen when one has good wine storage at home and better storage far away. At home I have a SubZero wine cellar unit. Like SubZero's refrigerators this is a unit that I had put flush into the wall adjacent to my kitchen. Ventilation and cooling is handled through the top and bottom and therefore requires less depth and can sit flush with other appliances making for a cleaner look. It's a smart unit with hardwood accented sliding shelves, a nice glass door and even one slanted shelf for displaying those trophy wines, should you desire. And of course nice accent lighting that is switchable on full-time, or like a refrigerator the lights come on when the door is opened. The unit is barely a few years old. But it happened. I opened the door that day and the light came on -- and then went out. Easy enough. Perhaps the light bulb. Investigation leads me to the manual. The manual leads me to the phone. Reason is that the lights are not a user serviceable part. Hmmmm. Wonder why? Not under warranty, but soon enough I've got a service guy scheduled to check it out. He shows up and can't figure it out. Makes a few calls. Scratches his head and then heads out the door in his Dickies overalls prominently displaying the SubZero logo while carrying his tool box and ear gripping his pencil. "We'll call you when we can come back." when the call to set the appointment for the follow up visit I'm told I have to empty the wine cellar of all the wine. Good god. 150 bottles. I can assure you it was much easier getting the bottles in the cellar than it was taking them out. Geeez. This is a lot of wine. A couple weeks pass and two gentlemen show up to finalize the repair. Looking at the boxes sitting next to the wine cellar the older man in amazement asks, "Wow. All that wine came out of there?" "Yup." I said. "Will you put them back when you're done?" I was kidding. They didn't get the joke. "We've got the part." One guy showed up the last time. But I guess these lighting unit repairs must be demanding. TWo hours later and I was signing the completed work order and sending them on there way. I was stupefied at the engineering of this supposedly premium high-quality product. It's nice. But two men, two hours to change the equivalent of a light bulb? Come on! What are they thinking? A perfect example when the thinking in product design falls to the wayside. That's a costly light bulb repair. Now the joke is on me and them. How many Subzero maintenance guys does it take to change a light bulb? And why should they?

The Eagle Screamed. Landed. And Laughed.

Fri, 17 Dec 2004 09:18:26 GMT

We started talking about it over a year ago. At first, it was just talk. You know -- big ideas but always with obstacles. People's schedules, availability of key items, location considerations. The whole gamut. But Al and I were committed to make it happen. After several broken dates and lapses of contact we agreed in late October to turn our dream into reality. The dream? Quite simple. Get as many vintages of the "sine qua non" of California Cult Cabernet wines and drink them with good friends. The wine? Screaming Eagle. Its status? Legendary. Jean Phillips convinced her friend Heidi Barret to help here make cabernet sauvignon from a small vineyard plot in Oakville in California's Napa Valley. As they say, the rest is history.

The wine caught the attention of wine critic and seeming wine alchemist Robert Parker -- that is, anything he scores 95 points or larger disappears from wine shop shelves in days -- sometimes minutes. Funny thing is, many of these wines likely sit on the wine shop shelves for weeks or months with little or no sales activity. Then bam. Parker's newsletter, The Wine Advocate, hits subscriber mailboxes. Subscribers subsequently scan the ratings and buy anything he gives a huge score. Not quite the way to buy wine. Yet singlehandly this man has altered winemaking worldwide. Sure. You think I'm kidding. But imagine if you sold a product at $35 and only had the ability to make 12,000 units annually. For years you struggle selling those 12,000 units. Then one day you wake up and find that overnight you were sold out. Why? Parker gave you 97 points. So next year you raise your price to $40. It still sells out and Parker still rates it in the stratosphere. Over the course of six years the price jumps to $150. You know have to allocate the number of units a single person can buy. And your demand is so strong you have to pass on selling it to retailers. Hell, going to direct you increase margin dramatically. Robert Parker has affected dozens of wineries worldwide. So those who he hasn't graced with huge scores scramble to make a wine that he will like. In other words, they alter their winemaking technique for the sole purpose of getting a better score. True artisan winemakers will deny they would steep to such a low position. Others will gladly admit they are making a "parkerized" wine.

Is it fair that one man has so much influence over an industry? Perhaps. But to his credit it's important to note that Parker's Wine Advocate accepts no advertising. Yet, the People Magazine of the wine industry, The Wine Specator gladly accepts winery advertising. And an interesting analysis of those brands appearing on its Top 100 wines of the year with respect to advertising revenue generated from ads placed by the holding companies of those brands might raise questions. To be sure, The Wine Spectator's influence on the industry is a minute fraction of the aforementioned Parker. But its Wine of the Year always causes a rukus and results in inflated prices of that wine in the following year. Case in point is the Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonomo County. A few years ago the 1996 vintage claimed the top prize as Wine of the Year. At the time the wine retailed for less than $25. The following year the price balooned to $75. And it rested there for a few years. Though thankfully for consumers and perhaps to the chagrin of Foster's beer parent Wolf Blass who bought Chateau St. Jean as part of Beringer Holdings, the wine has crept down in price and is currently selling for $50 or less -- still a huge jump from its pre-wine of the year days. In fact, I have a bottle of the 1994 Cinq Cepages with a price tag still proudly exhibiting $13.99. Even California real estate in Orange County hasn't increased as much. What's this all have to do with a yearlong dream and several failed attempts to realize such a dream? Screaming Eagle. The first vintage Jean and Heidi collaborated on was 1992. Every vintage Robert Parker has rated this wine 96 points or more. In most cases the wine attains scores of 98-100. And according to Parker, his 100 point wines are perfect.

So if you'd like to try what Robert Parker calls a "perfect" wine, you'd want to get your hands on a bottle of Jean and Heidi's Screaming Eagle or any of the handful of other wines he scores with such veracity. Problem is, until recently Jean only bottled about 300 cases of Screaming Eagle. And unless you had the chance to discover this wine about the same time Sir Robert Parker did and went throught the motions to get your name on Jean's mailing list (the list is closed and there are several thousand people on the waiting list -- which is also closed) you would be hard pressed to find a bottle of this wine. So what happens. Greedy mailing list recipients and osbstinate collectors in search of the Rosetta Stone of wine have created a market where this wine fetches more than $2,000 a bottle at auction and sometimes $5,000 on wine lists in some of the finest restaurants in New York, Chicago or Las Vegas. Though recently the market broke on Screaming Eagle. So if you've got a hankering to try a bottle you might find one for $1,000 -- but no less. I wrote to Jean in 1997 hoping to get my hands on Screaming Eagle. And I patiently waited until sometime in 2002 I received a letter offering me a few bottles of the 1998 vintage. Since then I've bought my "allocation" each year. Jean and Heidi were disappointed in their crop and overall the 2000 vintage in California that they decided not to bottle a 2000 Screaming Eagle.

Most people simply get their allocation and sell it. The 2001 vintage retailed to mailing list recipients for $250 per bottle. Hammer prices at wine auctions find this wine selling anywhere from $1300-$1900 per bottle. But rather than sell this wine, several friends and I set out to taste multiple vintages. The occasion? Why not. Sure, my birthday sounded like a good excuse. The holidays another. And the old adage "life is long" so enjoy it seemed well enough another. The price of admission to this dinner held at one of Orange County's premier restaurants, Pinot Provence, was a bottle of Screaming Eagle. We did have a problem, however. My brother Jon who booked a flight from Washington DC to Orange County to taste these cult classics did not have a unique vintage. That is, we had duplicity. So we worked hard to find another vintage with the lofty goal of trading one of our duplicate vintages. But no luck. In the end, Jon and I agreed that we'd submit a worhty surrogate -- the 1995 Bryant Family Vineyard -- another cult classic that turned totally unattainable and priced out of sight by the simple words and scoring of Sir Robert Parker. Sitting on the table was more than $6,000 of wine -- if you want to consider the current selling price (not restuarant price) of these wines. A bit decadnet? Yes. But to be fair, all of these wines came from personal cellars of my dinner guests and each of the guests hadn't opted to greedily sell their screaming eagles. All of us like minded souls interested in experiencing whatever magic Sir Robert Parker found in this small production Napa Valley wine. But before we started into the big bad reds it was appropriate to start the eving with champagne and chardonnay. And to live up to the magnus level of red wines, we found it important to sample the recently released 1996 Dom Perignon Champagne(95 points) and perhaps the most sought after California chardaonnay the 2000 Marcassin Vineyard Chardonnay from Sonoma County (94 points) which as luscious, rich and viscous without the hindrance of oak or butter that plagues many over the top California Chardonnay. Nice hints of honey, butterscotch matched with bright acidity and notes of straw, honeysuckle and beauty. The 1996 Screaming Eagle showed a bit of prune and raisin on the nose with mocha, sandlewood and earth on the palate finishing nicely with dried fruit and cherry, (92 points). The 1998 Screaming Eagle went through several phases over the 3 hour dinner where at one point I thought it was wine of the night. But its true essence shines through and was the most disappointing of the bunch exhibiting asparagus round cores of dark fruit, oak and berry (90 points). The 1999 Screaming Eagle was tight, backward and exhibiting a steely graphite nose with hints of herb, black cherry and anise. On the palate bold tannins and huge finish that settled as the night went on (95 points).

The 2001 Screamingn Eagle was tight, fruit forward and seductive and sensual. Chewy with sweet tannins and medium acidity. The wine sucked me in with cassis, black berry and coffee. Hmmm. (97 points). For me the wine of the night ironically enough was the 1995 Bryant Family Vineyard. Clearly the nose was much brighter than the Eagles with cherry, black cherry, rasberry and sweet anise with dark chocolate trying to show through. On the palate pure black cherry and strawberry liocrice with tannins resolved and a finish that went on for over a minute. (99 points). So was it fair to give the wine of the night to Bryant? Maybe not. 1995 was a vintage not represented here and perhaps a better Napa vintage than any of the Screaming Eagles. So my nod goes to 1999 and 2001 Screaming Eagle. Though if you have a 1995 Screaming Eagle and want to match it against a 1995 Bryant Family I do have another Bryant Family and welcome the tasting. That would be the only true test to see if Screaming Eagle does surpass the Bryant Family. So drop me a line and we'll taste together. I guess I could go on and talk about the beet salad, roasted duck or even the Dom Perignon. But I won't. This was an amazing night. I can safely say that I doubt anyone else on the planet tasted 4 vintages of Screaming Eagle that night. And is it worth the price people pay on auction? No way. It is perhaps one of the finest and well crafted California wines and kudos to Jean and Heidi for an amazing effort. I'll always buy my allocation. And I'll always be willing to share it with friends, family and more. That's what wine is all about. Not ratings. Not trophys to stare at in your cellar. And not bragging rights. It's simply to share. Enjoy. And to live.

A Ten Year Old Merlot & Some Random Thoughts

Fri, 10 Dec 2004 08:03:59 GMT

Trying to pick up the pace on the Digital Tavern, but I've been focusing on a rather large project that I'll fill you in on sometime in January. Patience and focus. Two of what have become my ubiquitous phrases when offering advice (solicited or not) to clients and friends. So the Dr. tells me I've got to control my cholesterol. Good god. I'm committed to doing all I can to avoid medication. Chances are it may not work. Most of this stuff is hereditary. But here I am devouring the oatmeal in the morning, taking long walks, slamming red yeast rice and going in for good doses of Omega-3 and doing my daily intake of psyllium husk. Ahhhh. You gotta love the fiber. And no. This is not the focus nor patience I'm talking about. But as a pure lamb loving carnivore who jumps at every wine dinner opportunity he can get, this author has cut way back. But tonight I opened a wine that perhaps I shoulda unleashed years ago: a 1994 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley Merlot. I'll admit my expectations were low. Especially given the poor showing a 1994 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon gave just hours before Tim and I boarded our flight to Portugal a few months back. I won't bore you with the notes. But if you've got that Montelena in your cellar, take my advice and send it to auction. On the contrary, this 1994 Merlot surprised me. To be sure, Merlot is the grape varietal everyone likes to make fun of -- dis, so to speak (that would be colloquially speaking, of course). The nose exhibited an abundance of dried cherry, sandlewood and a hint of asparagus and dried sage. On the palate it tasted ripe showing good acidity and nicely resolved tannins. Full-bodied, round and a respectable finish. Certainly, not the tired cedar, cigar box and leather disappointment I expected. So naturally, I give this wine a well-deserved score of 90 points. Not sure if there is any other bottle in existence as I write this. And I wonder why it lasted so long in my cellar. I can only speculate that I was visionary in my storage strategy. That is, I kept it so I'd have something to drink and write about tonight. I should note the price tag is still on the bottle. At $24.99 in 1995, this wine was not cheap back then -- especially for a Merlot. But then again I question Dean's assessment and unfortunate decanting of the same wine only ten years older (1974) tasted just a few months ago. But what a menu. So Bob Dylan had his 5 minutes on 60 minutes last Sunday. Okay. Maybe it was more, but it only felt like 5 minutes. Unlike the 1994 SLWC Merlot, the Dylan interview was a huge disappointment. I can only imagine that there was just no great material and Dylan was a total bore as an interviewee. I mean editors can work wonders even with the most media challenged talent. But Dylan? Good god. Keep him off television. See him in concert. Listen to him on his records and maybe (just maybe) read his new book -- I haven't so I will not speak to his prosaic or storytelling capabilities. It's the holiday season. My birthday is just a few days away. And to celebrate a few bodies and I are getting together to see what all the fuss is about with Screaming Eagle Cabernet. Screaming Eagle is arguably the most sought after and highest priced Napa Valley Cabernet in history. I guess we'll all find out if it's worth the hype or the price when we pop open four vintages next week. My brother Jon and singer-songwriter legend Al Stewart will join me and others on this historical evening. I'll be sure to report back. I see Joi is globetrotting again. Been meaning to connect with him. But our schedules are just not syncing yet -- I'm anxious to give him a heads up on the aforementioned project I'm working on. Doc quotes one of my marketing mentors, Al Ries, regarding the lack of focus airline marketers exhibit and why they are getting hammered by my favorite airline to hate: Southwest Airlines. I hear that Liz may find herself in Southern California early next year. Hope we have a chance to connect. As a closet MT transitional blogger I'm hoping to gain some insight and choke down a few tips over great wine and food. I've been out of it (blogging) for awhile, but recently I've noticed a lot of activity and pointers to 43 Folders. What's up with that? I mean I haven't been THAT much out of it.

Protectionism or Free Trade? Tasting History in Porto.

Wed, 27 Oct 2004 04:39:47 GMT

I wonder what Porto would be if it were not for the simple twist of fate caused by a trade disagreement between the French and United Kingdom in the 1500's? Perhaps just another non descript European city surrounded by just yet another wine region. Circumstance, history and good marketing have turned France and Italy into the most well known wine regions in Europe. Even Spain in a distant third place is in the shadows of these behemoth wine producing regions. Yet Portugal, Greece, Hungary and many more produce wine for export. In 1667 King Louis XIV's minister Colbert in a classic trade protectionist move forbade the import of English cloth into France. England's Charles II retaliated with a ban on French wine. English merchants in both England and Porto saw an opportunity and began importing "Portuguese red" into England. But as demand grew for finer wines a British wine merchant discovered "priests port" in a Lamego monastery up river in the Duoro Valley. While there's some history in question but it was believed that Brandy was added to Port wine so it would travel better. But the art of adding Brandy to wine to arrest fermentation, retain sweetness and raise the alcohol level wasn't practiced until the mid-1800's. So it was the accidental introduction of brandy and a lapse in trade between England and France that put Portugal on the world wine map. Even today the most prominent and sought after port wines are owned by British firms. As Tim and I followed the roads that tumble down the hill toward the Duoro River here in Porto we caught glimpse of this great river and across it huge signs sitting on the roofs of Port loges or houses. These massive buildings, many of which are tiered as the drop down the hill toward the river, are the trade centers, bottling facilities and administrative offices for the most prominent Port wine producers. The Port houses occupy a region across from the river and the city commerce center called Vila Nova de Gaia. Several bridges span the Duoro but by far the most famous is the huge double-deckered Ponte Dom Luis I bridge which carries both pedestrians and automobiles to and from Vila Nova de Gaia. Today it was obscured by massive scaffolding with the top deck closed to both cars and pedestrians. As we walked across we peered through the scaffolding at the river below where replica and perhaps some original boats that used to carry casks of wine to Porto and Gaia from the Duoro Valley 25-50 miles up river where the grand terraced vineyards where the great grapes of Port are grown. Relishing in its history Port producers proudly fly the sails or stack the boats with logo stamped barrels -- which create a mood of history and tradition. I had my eyes and pallet set on Taylor. Because my first experience with a truly great Vintage Port happened many years ago at a friend's birthday party. Impromptu and perhaps a bit nutty, it's often said mornings after of great food, wine sharing and indulging in the good life, that one might have been better served had he or she "gone home" when the Port came out. Sometimes synonymous with cigars, chocolate, nuts and stinky cheese, when Port is opened typically you can expect the evening to go on until that bottle is drained and the accompanying goodies resting happily in the bellies of everyone. It was a 1977 Taylor served with a brilliant selection of unsalted nuts, cheese and truffles that caused the light to go for me. And this light was screaming bright and beautifully colored and faceted. Vintage Port is perhaps the wine that benefits the most from aging. This wine was more than 30 years old when it was decanted and put in front of me. Exploding with flavors of nuts, dates, caramel and butterscotch and its viscosity coated my mouth and slowly down my throat with a finish that went on for minutes. Purely sensual and seductive. Yes. I was committed to finding Taylor. Based on a loosely drawn map and the proximity of the sign we noted when walking across the bridge we headed up the hills of Gaia. And these hills would fair well in a competition with San Francisco's steepest. So as we climbed past residences where women were hanging out laundry to dry or hanging precariously out windows batting dusty rugs we kept looking at our map and scratching our heads. The last thing we really wanted was to make a wrong turn. Going down these steep hills is just as physically demanding as going up. Happy with our cardio exercise but concerned that we were lost we finally were pointed in the direction of Taylor -- down the hill. We followed the cobblestoned road as is winded around until we were greeted with a tiny dusty and faded sign emblazoned in a stone embankment. When we found the entrance we turned to the right to see the roof of one of Taylor's buildings and the huge sign we had seen across the River. We joined a tour and walked through the barrels and casks of history and learned of the differences of Port Wine and Taylor's legacy, which started in 1692, in the world of Port Wine. For those curious, here is a quick overview of Port wine types:

Ruby or Red Port - cheaper port made from a blend of lower quality grapes meant to be consumed within 2 or 3 years

Tawny Ports - made from a blend of aged ports and bottle in 10, 20, 30 or 40 years indicating the average year of the wines blended in the bottle. Because they are filtered and fined during the bottling process these wines require no decanting and once opened they retain their aroma and flavor for nearly two months

Vintage Port - the highest quality and most expensive Port and made only when a vintage is spectacular and declared a "Vintage" by the Port wine regulatory group. Aged two years in cask then at least two years in the bottle before release. This wine does best with many years of aging.

Late bottle vintage port (LBV) - made from a single harvest and aged 4-6 years in cask prior to bottling.

Coheita - a single vintage tawny made from high quality wines and aged at least 7 years before bottling.

Tomorrow we'll drive up the River to the Duoro Valley and gaze up upon the vineyards that produce the grapes for great Port wines as we head south to Marvou a small hilltop medieval village near the Spanish border.

Tuesday Night Wine.
What's Yours?

Wed, 15 Sep 2004 08:15:19 GMT

It's Tuesday night. At home I sit alone. A simple chicken dinner with vegetables and a dinner salad. The dilemma floors me when I open the door to my wine cellar. Wine cellar. Hah. I like that word. It's a temperature controlled unit (one of two in my home) that keeps the delectable fermented bottles of grape at the precise temperature. Heat hurts. Cool is good. For wine, that is. I feel guilty if I open a good or great bottle of wine for just me. Selfish. Good and great wine are meant for sharing. I pull out shelf after shelf of wine bottles. Some red. Others white. Even a pink -- or two. "Too good.... Nah, saving that for so and so... too good." What the hell. I've got nearly 200 bottles of wine here and not one I can drink alone? Just me, the bottle and my simple dinner? Then I spot the Arrowood. At $60 a bottle it's not what I'd call a Tuesday night wine. If I remember it correctly it's stellar. the 1997 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Got 97 points or something like that -- for those who care. But the insanity of my warped rationale doesn't really hit me -- yet. Oh, I can open that bottle. I know I have at least three more in my "true" cellar -- off site where I can't be tempted by the seeds of desire. I'll just open that. At least I can taste how it's doing -- how it's aging. Alas, my Tuesday night wine decision dilemma solved. But I need something to make my dinner. A quick jaunt to the local grocer and zoom back again. With olive oil in hand I bolt toward's the registers. Then I slam on my brakes as if a bicycle just pulled out in front of me. Screeeeeeech. Well I'll be. Yes. It is a bicycle. A red bicycle. Rather Red Bicyclette -- a new wine imported from France. Cases of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet stacked 3 or 4 high. The price? Only $7.99 (the website is not up yet though a cute animation and registration form promises to let us all know when the site is live)

Truth is, this IS French wine. But I can't be fooled like many who will stop in wonder and gaze at the rather hip, contemporary label. Somewhat muted yet primary yellow with accents of blue and red, I grabbed the Syrah, released the brakes and idled toward the registers once again. So why did I opt for a $7 bottle of French village wine instead of fulfilling my whim and tantalizing my palate on a great Sonoma $60 cabernet? This is no ordinary French wine. And that's not to say it's extraordinary either. This wine has a unique pedigree. A very well known pedigree in the states. Some might find offense with the word "pedigree" urging words like trailer trash, wrong side of the tracks or even worse. But I won't go there. This French wine is made by, or for Gallo. You know the company. Famed for its Thunderbird, Night Train and Hearty Burgundy. The Modesto giant who fought with Jess Jackson of Kendall Jackson over the use of a grape leaf as a brand icon when it introduced Turning Leaf several years ago and in the process practically pushed Jackson's wines off the grocery shelves. Yes. E & J Gallo, is behind this bold new brand launch. But you'd be hard pressed to find any indication of Red Bicyclette's Gallo heritage on the label. Only © Red Bicyclette USA appears in mouse type below some flowery copy about Southern France and "magical moments pedaling" through countrysides of flowers, lavender and flavors. My expectations were well managed. I had prior knowledge of Gallo's wacky drift into French wine. Wacky because who'd think an American icon (good or bad) would enter into a venture and market French wine at a time when American sentiment to France is at an all time low. Forget the Statue of Liberty. Let's talk the liquid of love, life and seduction. Wine. But Gallo went there. The wine 2003 Red Bicyclette Syrah Vin de Pays D'OC has pleasant aromas of strawberry, spice, floral notes and white pepper. On the palate its mild acidity and spicy flavors meld with bright fruit up front. But then the flavors fade and disappear. Not a complex wine. And not extraordinary. Not bad. And at $7.99, not $60. 87 points. But what stopped me at the store was the story of the brand's development. Gallo is a clever and shrewd marketer. Adhering to the P&G model of buy mine or mine, there are a number of brands on the shelves that most consumers have no clue belong to Gallo. Brands like Turning Leaf, Frei BRothers, MacMurry Ranch and more. Many of these wines are very good. I'm not sure if this is Gallo's first partnership or marketing venture involving French wine, but the story is fascinating. Writing in the Modesto Bee, Tim Moran explored the making of a brand the E&J Gallo way:

[...] the idea for a French wine came from Gallo Co-President Joseph Gallo, said the company s vice president of marketing, Gerry Glasgow. Joe came into my office one day and asked, Where do we go next? What do you think of France? Glasgow said.

Glasgow and five other Gallo marketing executives hopped on a plane, and spent 10 days in France. It was a week after the Iraq war had been declared, and others in the company questioned their sanity, Glasgow said. Consumer reactions to France are ambivalent, Glasgow said. They view France as the birthplace of wine, and remember the French paradox pointing to the health benefits of wine.

But they also think of arrogance, rudeness and conceit, said Iain Douglas, Gallo vice president of marketing particularly in the cities of France. The French even feel that about Paris, he said. The consumer images of the French countryside are different warmth and inviting small villages[...]

Gallo could have simply purchased bulk French wine, throw a fancy label on it and use its marketing clout to gain prime distribution. But they took an approach that would ideally give the brand longevity. It's about the product... That is, balancing the brand's image with the juice in the bottle.

[...] a brand image means little without a quality product, however, and Gallo approaches the development of wines with a sophistication few others in the industry can match. Borrowing techniques from the fragrance and food industries, Gallo uses a panel of trained sensory evaluators to create a map of the characteristics of a wine varietal.

The panel will taste hundreds of chardonnays from around the world, for instance, to identify perhaps 35 or 40 distinct styles of that varietal. Each wine style is then mapped for different characteristics acidity, oak, body, palate, finish. Every possible description to pass on to the winemaker, Douglas said.

Then consumers are brought in from around the country to taste five wines a night, and rate them on a scale of one to nine, with nine being the highest possible score, Glasgow said. We end up with consumer likability scores, Glasgow said, across many demographics age, income, level of wine sophistication. Those scores are combined with the sensory panel information to make a three-dimensional map of how the various styles match up with consumer preferences[...]

Some of my wine brethren may find this rather unsettling. But let's face it, we all have our preferences for the way things taste or feel on our body -- brand preference or not. Take toilet paper. Ah. The glamor. But similar tests and methodology are used to develop a fine, soft and soothing tissue that will -- okay. I won't go there. Soft drinks, cars, menus even at high end restaurants. All are subject to such testing to a certain degree. But most fascinating to me is how Gallo named the product.

[...] The Gallo executives traveled, observed and took in the ambiance of the southern France countryside. They took 5,000 pictures, which were brought back to the Modesto winery and pinned up in a room, Glasgow said. The pictures were studied for images or symbols that would represent the French countryside for consumers. Red bicycles seemed to recur in the pictures, Glasgow said but red bikes sounded American, so it became Red Bicyclette. French, but easily translatable. Baguettes, a fellow in a beret and a little dog were added a brand image was born [...]

It's Tuesday night and I'm on my second glass of Red Bicyclette. it's not great. It's not $60. And it's not bed. I'm sure you'll find it at your grocer or liquor store. Pick up a bottle and check it out. I think it's an ambitious endeavor and I think Gallo will succeed -- despite the odds: a strong Euro, jaded opinions of France and the proliferation of $2 wines like Two-Buck Chuck and others. Let me know.

Isn't Time We Wine?

Thu, 26 Aug 2004 07:51:47 GMT

I haven't blogged about wine in a helluva long time. And tonight as I work on a client project, catching up on blogs and relaxing before catching a dose of Olympics I think it's important to note that I'm enjoying an excellent glass of wine. Within days of returning from China, in May I took a quick jaunt to Paso Robles to attend the Hospice du Rhone event. Started years ago by John Alban and Mat Garretson, this is truly one of the greatest and most underrated wine events in the United States. But it was on this trip that I finally found my way out to the Westside of Paso Robles to meet Matt Trevisan one of the co-founders of Linne Colado Wines. I won't go into the gossiping soap opera details of Linne Colado and Matt's ex-partner Justin Smith (who now makes delicious wines under his own Saxum label) but suffice to say I was impressed with the Linne Colado offerings at the time. And I also walked home with a handful of Saxum wines. At Linne Colodo Matt and I wandered around the 50 or so barrels he had stacked in his modest tasting/barrel room. He'd blend me wines in the glass on a whim from a selection of varietals from different barrels. Johnny Cash and Bob Dylan sang through his speakers. "I'm into an Americana phase," Trevison explained. I promised to set him up with some new additions to his Americana collection. And writing this I realize how lame I've been on my follow through. They're coming, Matt. I promise. But it's about wine tonight. Remember? Because tonight I sip one of Matt's pet projects, Amnesia. From the 2002 vintage. Perhaps a whim from a blend when another customer poked his head into the tasting/barrel room. Who knows. But I'm guessing due to the blend of Syrah, Zinfandel and Mourvedre that Matt simply forgot exactly how he made this wine. I couldn't tell you what he blended for me that day. But it was outstanding. The Amnesia? It's sumptuous. And that means enjoyable, if not delicious. You see the Linne Calodo wines have garnered a somewhat cult status. I'm not sure why because many wines made in Paso today are equally of the LC caliber. But I may speak to soon. I dig this wine. Not expensive. Not terribly expressive. But on a Wednesday night after a hard day of work sipping this wine is pure pleasure. Sometimes I tend to open a big cab or opulent but mediocre Burgundy. Tonight I'm enjoying a little Amnesia. Forgetting that wine isn't about the label -- it's about what's inside the bottle. Linne Colodo. A wine to watch. Ask your wine shop. Serious. Anthing you'd like to know about Paso Robles? Drop me a line. It's the next thing -- really.

Looking For Chinese Wine.

Wed, 02 Jun 2004 07:22:59 GMT

China. You gotta love this place. The people so industrious yet get out into the countryside and you can see the classic images that have graced the pages of National Geographic and the airwaves of the Discovery Channel and the Travel Channel. Hanging in southwest China we are living the subtropical climate. With it comes the humidity, the tropical plants, flora and fauna. But one thing is for sure. This is not a climate conducive to growing grapes and therefore making wine. Not that I haven't searched for wine. Great or otherwise. As a traveler, explorer and wanderer I typically search out local or indigenous experiences. Whether this is food, culture or whatever you might call "living life". So finding a good bottle of wine has been a challenge. Not to mention a decent glass or "stem" as I am fond of referring to those glass or crystal vessels designed to host the juice of the fermented grape. Found wine. Haven't found a stem. And wouldn't you know it. The two easiest to find bottles of wine are from producers aptly named "Dynasty" and "Great Wall".The wines come in the standard sizes, shapes and flavors. The cabernet from Great Wall seems to be the best I've tasted to date. Vintage? 1999. But it's important to note that the grapes from these wines are about as indigenous as the Madagasscar Palms gracing the grand entrance to Fashion Island in Newport Beach are to California. Depending on the year, the weather and the political climate in Bejing, the grapes for Dynasty, Great Wall or any other Chinese wine come from France, South America or Australia. As far as I can tell, it's never consistent. It's just wine. Throw a label on it and sell it. So it stands to reason that when I ran across this article today it dawned on me that the Chinese DO have an appetite for wine. And that's why imports of wine into China increased at a healthy rate of more than 50% last year from the previous year.

[...] according to figures released by the Beijing customs authorities, with a value amounting to almost o26 million, an increase which is being attributed to lower import tariffs and increasingly westernized consumer tastes ...]

It's interesting to note that the majority of the wines imported by China are from Chile. According to AP-Foodtechnology.com France, Australia, the US, Argentina, Italy and Spain follow in that order. While I didn't actually see too many Chinese locals imbibing in the greatest and perhaps oldest fermented beverage on the planet, according to the previously mentioned website, "wine is gaining popularity among China[base ']s increasingly affluent consumers, particularly red wine, although many people drink it on-the-rocks or served with mixers such as cola." No there you go. I know two people in the USA that prefer not to drink it straight up enjoying it on the rocks. My dad and my good friend Paul Hunter. But somehow both of these folks would probably never step into China. Shame. Seems they might have something in common after all. Hanging in Guilin. More on this legendary town later. Photo: (1) Does this one need any explanation. Which Dynasty? Tong? Which Great Wall? The only one. The wine? Juice is likely Chilean or Australian. But when in Rome....

Crystal Wine Glass Magnate Josef Riedel Dies

Wed, 24 Mar 2004 21:30:56 GMT

Thanks to Pete who pointed me to today's New York Times article (free registration required) announcing that wine glass innovator Josef Riedel died last week of a heart attack in Italy. If you've never heard or used a Riedel (pronounced like 'needle') wine stem you are likely missing out on truly tasting the full flavor experience of any wine you drink. I know. Sounds silly doesn't it. How can a wine glass change the way a wine tastes. The converted are a cult-like group. Many will carry their own stems into a restaurant that serves wine in thick fish bowls that can stand the rigors of a restaurant kitchen. I converted many years ago. I actually met Georg Riedel, Josef's son, at a "glass tasting". With my tongue in cheek and suitcase full of wise cracks I was determined to call this thick accented Austrian to the carpet. But I was amazed. I never experienced the aromatic of a wine before. The true test was comparing the typical restaurant wine glass with the same wine in a Riedel stem. Josef Riedel focused on one of the sensitive parts of our body -- our tongue and the inside of our mouths (Linda Lovelace try a Riedel stem). He found that different wines and spirits tasted differently based on where the 'juice' fell on your palate. So he spent years designing stemware with different shapes and sizes based on the varietal.

[...] He spent 16 years studying the physics of wine delivery to the mouth and taste buds and experimenting with different glass configurations, matching them with wines of different regions, different grapes and different ages.

The size of a glass, its thickness, the shape of its bell and the diameter of its rim contributed materially to the taste of the wine drunk from it, Mr. Riedel came to believe. The wine's balance, depth, harmony and complexity, he discovered, could and often did change from one glass to another. When told that the glasses he created would have limited market appeal, he said: "Aesthetics and excellence are my criteria, not mere convenience." [...]

Over the last 10 years Josef's son Georg has circumnavigated the globe preaching the value of pairing the proper glass with a specific wine. The grass roots effort has paid off. Riedel created a category and a wave of me-too competitor copycats has followed. But none are as good nor as well known as Riedel. But they are cheaper. And as any good marketing or branding expert will agree, if all you've got to compete with is a lower price you will certainly grab sales -- not customers -- loyal customers. I've got more than 3 dozen Riedel stems - for burgundy, bordeaux/cabernet, chardonnay, syrah, port and chianti/Brunello. Photos: (1) The last drops of a non-decanted 1995 Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley sticking to the size of a Riedel Vinum Bordeaux stem; (2) Hundreds of Riedel Vinum glasses lined up for a legendary 2000 Bordeux tasting I atteneded recently (yet to blog).

South of France Through Renoir's Eyes and Abode.

Tue, 03 Feb 2004 08:48:22 GMT

In 1903 Renoir moved to the south of France with the hopes of alleviating his rheumatoid arthritis. Sixteen years later he died. I carried a single bottle of wine to France. A 1997 Joseph Phelps Vineyards Insignia. This was symbolic for a number of reasons. Most importantly when Wirestone, the company I founded with Bryan my travel partner on this trip, completed its first round of venture financing we gave each of our vice presidents, investors and key clients a bottle of 1997 Phelps Insignia. Nearly 4 years later, Bryan and I cracked a bottle in Cagnes-sur-Mer on the grounds of one of the greatest French Impressionists, Pierre-Auguste Renoir.

Some might think this act would be one of heresy. Bryan I thought it was just the right thing to do at the right time. The setting was perfect. The irony abt. And the wine -- excellent. To be sure, later that evening we opened a bottle of Grand Cru Burgundy from Gevrey-Chambertin. But for Renoir, nothing but the best of California.

Traipsing across his estate I was enamored with the gnarly olive trees. Expressing themselves with twisted trunks and limbs, i could only think of Renoir stuck in his wheel chair with arthritis so bad his hands and knuckles grossly deformed and extremely painful. But the beauty of his painting in those final years, and his sculptures and those who came to learn and be inspired and even to inspire the master. I was amazed. Looking over his gardens at the Medieval village of Cagnes, down to the coast to Cannes. And I imagined how the beauty that Renoir captured and while not fair for me to say, but the development, the Auto Route and the nasty 60's-esque architecture that today litters the view that inspired Renoir and so many. But I brought myself back. Walking the grounds and thinking how small those olive trees were in his paintings. And how big and gnarly they were today. Nothing stays the same. But the more it changes... A must stop for anyone in south of France. Visit Renoir's home and see France at the turn of the century.

Photos: (1) Nudes from Renoir's Cagnes-sur-Mer home and studio; (2) Classic Renoir painting, "Luncheon of the Boating Party"; (3) View from window of Renoirs home of medieval Cagnes; (4) 100+ year old olive tree on Renoir's property in Cagnes-sur-Mer; (5) Renoirs studio nearly as he left it after his death on December 3, 1919; (6) A close up of another gnarly trunk of an old Renoir olive tree.

The Latest Trend in French Wine?

Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:53:56 GMT

So in case you haven't been following The Mollusk, you might have missed the Vin Table Francaîs (French Wine) he sent me to commemorate my safe return from my recent trip to France. Or, perhaps this is just something to keep the wine drinkers happy during the All American of All American sporting brouhaha events this coming weekend. Ahhhh, crack open another can, Jonathan. The aluminum, the sharp metallic tactile and taste on my lips. So smooth.... hey maybe this could be the French Wine Industry's answer to Two Buck Chuck... thanks Jonathan!

Suffering In San Tropez. Big Bad Bandol Wines.

Sun, 25 Jan 2004 23:43:24 GMT

Saint-Tropez

>We set out for the western part of the Riviera. I've always wanted to see St. Tropez famous to me not only because of Bridget Bardot in And God Created Woman, but for a song on Pink Floyd's 1971 album Meddle:

As I reach for a peach
Slide a line down behind a sofa in San Tropez
Breaking a stick with a brick on the sand.
Riding a wave in the wake of an old sedan.
Sleeping alone in the drone of the darkness,
Scratched by the sand that fell from my love,
Deep in my dreams and I still hear her calling
"If you're alone, I'll come home."

Backward and home bound, the pigeon, the dove,
Gone with the wind and the rain, on an airplane.
Born in a home with no silver spoon,
I'm drinking champagne like a good tycoon.
Sooner than wait for a break in the weather,
I'll gather my far-flung thoughts together.
Speeding away on a wind to a new day.
And if you're alone I'll come home.

And I pause for a while by a country stile
And listen to the things they say.
Digging for gold in a hoe in my hand.
Open the book, take a look at the way things stand.
And you're leading me down to the place by the sea.
I hear your soft voice calling to me.
Making a date for later by phone
And if you're alone,I'll come home.

But the Saint Tropez (San Tropez) immortalized by Bardot in And God Created Woman showed it as a playground of sex, nudity, women and parties. The Saint Tropez I found on this cold January afternoon was far from the frolicking femme fatales firmly implanted in my mind. Instead I found Club 55 on Pampolonne Beach closed for winter. Nikki Beach? Closed. We settled on Tahiti Beach and a wonderful but way to hearty lunch at Millesim Beach Club Tahiti.

We parked our car between two coconut palms in the nearly deserted sandy parking lot. We were the only customers in the restaurant. Our hostess offered and immediately pushed a button to pull the awning back to the main building so we could dine under the Saint Tropez sun. Meanwhile two co-workers removed spent candle wax from woven rattan place mats and refinished the tea furniture. Down the plage (beach) a lone beachcomber slowly weaved his way toward the restaurant. Looking over the famous beach I tried to imagine the bikini clad goddesses who tempt the libidinal urges of the men who flock to this beach. Instead I saw a beach littered with ugly seaweed. While I couldn't argue with my seaside view, I couldn't imagine the crowds this narrow beach serves at the height of the season. We left the beach with a promise. A promise to return and compare and contrast are January experience with one in May or September. Finding the road toward Toulon, we decided to make time to visit yet another medieval village or two and one of the most famous vineyards in the Provencal region -- Domaine Tempier. Bandol. Wine. And More Medieval.
Using a rough map from the winery's website we pulled into the driveway of Domaine Tempier. Following us down the driveway was a young boy of 8 or 9 years. He walked into the office behind us and quickly made his way into the home connected to the office. We were greeted by a nice looking woman in here 30's. I asked if she spoke English. No luck. I muttered a few badly pronounced French words but the two or three that made it through were dégustation (tasting) and Kermit Lynch. Kermit is the Berkeley-based importer responsible for discovering and bringing Domaine Tempier into the United States. Bandol and the successful wineries in the region can thank Tempier's founder, the late Lucien Peyraud, who in 1941 helped gain Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée status for the region. We were soon greeted by Catherine Peyraud, Lucien's daughter-in-law, who explained her husband Jean-Marie had retired in 1999 and winemaking duties had been taken over by former Domaine Ott winemaker Daniel Ravier. While Bandol is known for its big and hearty reds, the wine must be aged in casks for at least 18 months and contain at least 50 percent Mourvèdre, I was most interested in its Rosé -- yes a pink wine.

Unfortunately the Rosé was sold out but coincidentally one of Kermit Lynch's representatives had visited Domaine Tempier the day before so there were a small amount of the Rosé we could taste. Glad I asked. We then tasted the 2001 and 2001 reds. I'll refrain from making this post any longer than it already is by not including my tasting notes. Instead, I'll urge you to find a bottle of 2000 Domaine Tempier (it ranked #53 in Wine Spectator's top 100 wines of 2003). Or look for Domaine Bunan or its other properties including Chateâu La Rouvière, Moulin des Costes, Mas de la Rouvière and Domaine de Bélouvé for a true taste of Mouvedre from Bandol. They are perfect with hearty winter meals of Coq a Vin, bouillabaisse, stews, lamb and roasted pork. Hmmmmm.

As we left Domaine Tempier the sun was setting. Off in the distance we saw another village perched high upon a hill. Hoping to find our first and last medieval village of that day we pointed our Peugeot 307 in the direction and drove into Le Castellet.

Photos: (1 & 2) Bridget Bardot; (3) Gnarly old Mouvedre vines at Domain Tempier in Bandol region of France; (4) Entrance to Domain Tempier; (5) Catherine Penraud of Domaine Tempier; (6) Sunset over Bandol; (7) Medieval church in Le Castellet, France.

Birthdays & Anniversaries. Mom & Prohibition.

Sat, 06 Dec 2003 07:18:35 GMT

Happy Birthday Mom. And thank god we can celebrate the 70th anniversary of the repeal of the 18th Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. You know. The one that in 1919 made sales and distribution of alcohol illegal. Except for sacrament, of course. That is, for the church. My mom was born years after the repeal of the 18th Amendment was made possible by the ratification by Congress of the 21st Amendment in 1933.

Happy Birthday.

Me and mom. Years ago. Sagitarius. Both of us.

Perhaps the best birthday present Mom every received arrived exactly a week late. Me. My day comes next week. But I'm feeling a bit guilty tonight. Trying to choose a wine to open on this Friday night, I painfully labored while pouring through the racks of my wine cellar. No matter what I considered I thought to myself, "too good for just me, tonight." I finally settled on a bottle of Merlot. Damn. I love Merlot. It got such a bad rap and bad production during the 80's as the wine for non-wine drinkers. Chardonnay came next. And now it seems to be Syrah. Fortunately there are many wineries making valiant attempts at producing a wine that would make the French in Pomerol or St. Emilion proud or their ancestors to roll over in their graves. Nonetheless, this 2000 Pride Mountain Vineyards Wind Whistle Vineyard Merlot from Napa County is absolutely stunning. A bit toasty, but certainly not offensive. Caramel, creme brulee with dark blackberries and a finish that simply won't quit. Seductive and succulent, the flavors wallow on the palate and beg for tantalizing tongue tingling. Damn. I shouldn't be drinking this alone. Sadly, less than 350 cases were produced. If you happen to be one of the lucky one's who owns a bottle or two, you're in for a treat. But wait a year or two. And open it when there are friends who'd enjoy such a treat. But now that I've broken the silence hear in The Digital Tavern, I guess I'll toast this magnificent merlot with you. And for my mom. And for the 21st Amendment. For without its ratification, we wouldn't be sharing this great wine!

Siena in the Rain.
Ricolma in the House.
Vin Santo Redux.

Fri, 24 Oct 2003 04:22:05 GMT

We arrived after hanging with the Ciacci family. It was dark in Siena. The main Piazza empty. But the signature clock tower loomed high and proud above. The next day, the skies starting welling up and then cried. We walked the walled city of Siena and reminisced about the fight for control and struggle for power between the Sienese and the Florentines. We'll be in Florence soon. But here we'll tour the great country of Northern Tuscany known to the rest of the world as Chianti.
We met Lucca who is one of the brothers that run San Giusto A Rentennamo the makers of the Percarlo, that great Sangiovese we had back at La Grotta in Montepulciano. We had stopped in earlier to do a quick tour and tasting, but Lucca wasn't around. So we returned the next day. I wanted to open a bottle of California Merlot that I schlepped all the way from Newport Beach - a 1996 Pahlmeyer. You see one of San Giusti's rarest wines is called Ricolma. It's 100% Merlot and virtually impossible to find. And if you find it, prepare to pay. My brother Jon was able to get his hands on a bottle a year ago when he was last in Florence. We drank it last year around New Years. It blew us away. So I was determined to track down the owners and share one of California's finer Merlots.

When we arrived in the late afternoon Lucca led us to a small dwelling toward the back of the 15th century building that serves as San Giustis cellar. He opens the door and immediately the chill of the cooled Chianti evening was comforted by a toasty warming offered by an old wood burning stove in the corner. Lucca pulled a plate of salami, cheese and bread from a cupboard and placed a bottle of Olive Oil made from the 1,000+ olive trees on his property on the table. Unexpectedly, he pulled a bottle of Ricolma that was slightly more than half full and placed it on the table. I handed him the Pahlmeyer which he opened.

Lucca, Tim and I tasted the great Merlots of both Tuscany and Napa Valley. His Ricolma showed more finesse and silkiness while the Napa contingent showed brute force, power and tannin. For a 1996 the Pahlmeyer could use a few more years. Different styles from different regions. Each its own character and reflecting the personality of its maker. And for Lucca, the maker is the earth. The soil. There's not much interfering with the winemaking process at San Giusti. Sure, he explained how he's playing with drip irrigation. But his biggest challenge is understanding how the shift in weather pattern will affect how he farms and plants his vineyard. Worried that the climate may soon me more in tune to the North or Germany, he's wondering how to manage change in the vineyard. Lucca will go to Australia later this year to meet with winemakers who he says have adjusted to a similar change in weather pattern that affected a particular region down under. I need to understand more of what happened in Australia. But to watch Lucca's expression and hear in his voice the concern it makes me concerned, too. We exchanged cards and Lucca and I agreed we'd pull corks on his next visit to California. The good news is earlier that day we met a gentlemen from Woodstock, New York who runs a wine shop in Chianti. He found us a couple bottles of Ricolma for a very reasonable price. Nice. Photos: (1) Siena Piazza Campo at night. (2) Siena in the Rain. (3) San Giusti wines in dusty old cellar. (4) Barrels of Percarlo aging. There was no 2000 release. So it's a rare to find a bottle. (5) San Giusti Vin Santo Grapes drying on traditional bamboo racks. Amazing scene. (6) Old Vin Santo Cask waiting it's six year hibernation to end. (7) Vin Santo Grapes drying.

The Holy Grail of Wining & Dining in Tuscany?

Thu, 23 Oct 2003 02:49:21 GMT

That last thing you really want to read about is the food and wine Tim and I experienced in Tuscany. But perhaps you'd want a hot tip? You know, for your upcoming trip to Italy? There's no question you need to visit Montepulciano. And when in Montepulciano pull out all the stops and have perhaps the best dining experience in Tuscany at Ristorante La Grotta (San Biagio, Montepulciano. Tel: 0578 758354 Closed Wednesdays, and Jan-Feb.). I'm not going to bore you with the Rabbit, Pici, Chianina beef, Tiramasu and other classic traditional Tuscan treats we sampled. But I will go on a bit about the wine. An amazing selection for this evenings meal:

2000 Poggio alle Gazze (the last of the white Ornellia, since Mondavi partnered with this operation this vineyard has been pulled and replaced with Cabernet, how sad)
1997 Percarlo San Giusto A Rentennamo
1988 Avignonesi Vin Santo

And no. We didn't finish the evening with Grappa. The 1997 Percarlo is a pure 100% Sangiovese from the Chianti region. But don't let the region fool you. This wine while light in color packs a full bodied punch with such elegance and flair you are taken back and while the wine coats your tongue and tickles your throat with its amazingly long finish. If I didn't know this was sangiovese, I'd swear it had the complexity and mouth feel of a bordeaux varietal, but with finesse rarely found in a young wine from France or California. Many of my friends have yet to understand the Italian wines, other than the big California or French imitators (aka Super Tuscans). But the great indigenous to this part of Italy is Sangiovese. And many feel that to plant cabernet is to violate an ultimate truth. "What? You want the wines from Italy to taste as if they're from California, France or Australia, merde!" As for the 2000 Poggio alle Gazze, what can I say. This is a Sauvignon Blanc that perhaps also is a varietal better suited to Bordeaux or Napa. But to folks at Ornellia planted this grape many years ago to complement their highly rated and sought after Super Tuscan the almighty Ornellia. But what the hell. Mondavi came in and ripped out the vineyard to plant something else. Sangiovese you might think? Nah. Cabernet. So much for my discussion on indigenous culture. Ah. But the 1988 Avignonesi Vin Santo? We searched high and low for this wine. Every wine store and ristorante shook their heads and in the best broken English would tell us "all finish". Ah. They meant it's not available. Avignonese waits 10 years, which is 4 more than the typical aging period for a Vin Santo, per the DOC standards. But recently Avignonesi changed their production methods and will age future Vin Santo wines for 12 years. This put an additional strain on a production that barely yields 1,000 cases worldwide. But this wine was luscious and better than the best Chateau D'Yquem from Sauternes I've ever tasted. It's certainly thicker. But that's what happens to an d'Yquem after 50 years. But this wine was only 15 years old. More reasonable in my opinion. Caramel, creme brulee and honey flavors. Nectar. I've never been a huge desert wine fan. Sure, love the great Sauternes. But mostly I prefer Port. And I generally have a short glass of anything sweet and sticky that comes in a glass bottle. But this wine went on forever. And so did I when talking about it for the next several days. I'm looking for more, so if you have a bottle let's break bread!

What's With Vin Santo?

Wed, 22 Oct 2003 01:57:09 GMT

Altesino has been a familiar name in Brunello di Montalcino since the early 70's. Their Brunello designated Montosoli Vineyard is consistently highly related, delicious, hard to get and expensive. But worth it. Last year the previous owners sold the vineyard and brand to a woman who resides in Rome and who owns another vineyard in Montalcino and a winery in Chianti.

Taking a 20 minute drive outside of Montalcino we turn onto a dirt road and pass a number of farms, vineyards and farmhouses till we get to the top of crest overlooking golden hue colored rolling hills with green cypress trees sprinkled here in there. We have a private tour and tasting here today but a woman from Long Island stumbled upon the farm (in Italy these estates are really not called vineyards or wineries, they are simply farms - Fattoria) remembering visiting the property a couple years ago, this woman was there because of the property, not the wine. When sipping the Vin Santo (a dry sweet wine) she felt it was "too strong". But I'm diverting. After taking a cell phone call in the middle of the tour we were ready for business as we gazed across the vast property toward the south east where our guides fingers pointed to the vineyard that made Altesino famous: the Montosoli. The Long Island woman's comment was simple, straightforward and honest. "I liked it better with the previous owners because they let 30 wild horses roam the property. We were treated to a special tour of the room where the Vin Santo is made. Rather than explain the process of making Vin Santo, I'm going to draw on an article titled Elixir of the cognoscenti by Tomas Clancy of The Sunday Business Post: The process of Vin Santo creation is called passito and is a grape-drying method. The grapes, usually the widely-planted but somewhat underwhelming Trebbiano and the Malvasia, are harvested more or less on time. Then they are hung up on racks or laid on bamboo hammocks, usually and classically in the attic of the vineyard owner's house. The grapes are left to dry out very slowly, by natural action. Once desiccated fully, sometime around February (again the timing is a matter of great anxiety), the grapes are crushed. The crush is then poured evenly into numerous small wooden barrels known as caratelli.

They must be as small as you can afford and there are many regulations on maximum size, particularly for those who wish to comply with DOC rules on Vin Santo production. These small wooden casks in contrast to the general fetish are not new, indeed, older casks with long vinous histories are most prized here. Then the next stage is the X element in each producer's creative cycle. Before the casks are sealed, each Vin Santo maker will drop in a dollop of 'something' into the cask. The something is a 'fuse' designed to ignite the fermentation process. This is known as the 'mother', the same 'madre' often seen in vinegar production. It is often merely the lees from a prior fermentation, although occasionally it might also contain a little special family additive. Whether they are adding a shuffle of yeast or just pouring it in through their grandfather's favourite funnel, you are never going to find out. Its effect is probably mythical anyway. The casks are then sealed, and gently brought back up to the attic. The attics of classical Vin Santo production are wide, graceful spaces below sensuous, umber tiled roofs. In the winter they are chill places, across which clouds of wood smoke drift. Even during a single day they can run a full cycle from boiling heat to unexpected bitter chill. The casks remain absolutely still, no racking, no movement of any kind for at least three years, but good Vin Santo can stay up there, like a wooden Mir, for seven or eight years. When the casks return to earth they are quickly bottled and sold for extortionate, but entirely economic prices. The best producers can make a wine of staggering and hypnotic power. The worst end up with something resembling meths. In Ireland we are fortunate, because of the price and the required levels of commercial sophistication that are necessary to bring a product -- even a boutique one -- to market, we are spared the meths. In Tuscan Vin Santo production there are many princes and one king. The undisputed Holy Grail is the stellar Vin Santo of the Montepulciano House Avignonesi. It is produced by Paolo Trappalini to a searing intensity after a 'no expense spared' production process. This is just what you would expect when a half bottle of the wine runs to roughly £170.
As for the Holy Grail, the next night Tim and I experienced the Holy Grail in more ways the one. Stay tuned! Photos: (1) Aging bottles of Altesino wine in cellar of 14th Century Palace. (2) Slovenian casks in Altesino Cellar. (3) Vin Santo grapes recently harvest and in process of 5-6 month hang drying prior to crushing. (4) Tim Santo backlit by the vineyard sun casting watchful eye over the next vintage of Vin Santo.

Brunello di Montalcino VIP Style

Tue, 21 Oct 2003 10:13:03 GMT

For me, the true benefits of traveling transcend the history, geography, scenic beauty, the sense of freedom of being "away" and the comeraderie shared with those traveling. Instead, it's the people I meet. And while I've probably not done justice to the dozens of people I've met and shared experiences with on this trip, I can't underestimate the sense of joy I revel in when getting to know someone who lives in a place so far from me geographically and culturally. While it's no secret both Tim and I share a passion for wine. And our trip here to Italy is focused on learning more about the culture, history and of course the wine and cuisine of Tuscany. And after a great visit with Piero Palmucci, we returned to the tiny village of Castelnuevo del'Abate to understand more about the great wines from Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello. Compared to many of the Brunello di Montalcino estates Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona is fairly young. And the story of Giuseppe Biancini and how he came to build Ciacci is amazing. For 30 years Giuseppe Biancini worked as an administrator to the estate of countess Piccolomini who lived in the 17th century bishop's palace built for Fabio De Vecchi, Abbot of Sant'Antim, Count Palatine and Pontifical Advisor, 400 hectares of land which at the time this story begins only had 2 hectares planted in vineyards. In 1985 the countess died and Giuseppe Biancini was called to the notary office. Perhaps Giuseppe was more preoccupied with dealing with the estates eventual fate. Or maybe he was preoccupied with thoughts about finding his first new job in 30 years so he could continue to support his wife and two young children. Whatever Giuseppe was thinking, I'm confident he wasn't mentally prepared to deal with what happened in the notary's office that fateful morning in 1985. That morning he learned that he was the new owner of the Ciacci property. The countess left him no money, but all the property. Why? Because he was the only person she felt truly loved the land. As the adage goes, the rest is history. Giuseppe had to sell off part of the property to raise the money to pursue his dream. That is, to make a first class Brunello di Montalcino. And nearly 20 years later the wines of Ciacci have received critical acclaim including joining the ranks of the best 100 wines in the world by Wine Spectator last year (#21 and 97 points for the 1997 Brunello). In our usual fashion, Tim and I showed up late for our appointment. According to Jenna, the USA-born hostess for Ciacci we would be joining 7 others for a tour and tasting of the ancient estate. After meandering around the small town and wedging the Fiat into what could be considered a parking space, we burst into the door of Ciacci a bit red-faced and embarrassed. We were met immediately by Jenna. And it turns out that there were only two other visitors who'd be joining us. Even better, these visitors included a friend of hers from Brooklyn, Andy Shernoff, the bass player from the 70's NY punk band, The Dictators who had played a gig in Rome a few days earlier. And according to Jenna, this would turn out in our favor because we'd get the VIP treatment. That is, tasting wines and visit parts of the property not normally available for casual guests.

I really wanted to met Giuseppe Bianchini. I had read his story in a book that Tim had purchased in Montepulciano titled SuperTuscans. Ciacci makes such a wine called ATEO. So I wanted to get Giuseppe to sign the book and hear more about his amazing story. Unfortunately, Giuseppe was no where to be found. Jenna detected my disappointment. Just then an Italian man walked by the tasting area and Jenna pulled him into the room. We were introduced to Paolo, Giuseppe's son. Paolo didn't speak much English show Jenna translated. The mood loosened from the great wine, smiles and casual manner in which this VIP treatment was going. Soon I was attempting to joke and make word play with Paolo. Finally, I withdraw my Lonely Planet Phrase Book (no not the Indonesian version, the Italian) and I tried to impress the crowd with my Italian. To try to explain what happened next isn't easy. Simply the facts. The LP Phrase Book has a section for everything. If you're at the dentist you have the phrase to tell the doctor you don't want an extraction. In the vegetarian eating section you have the phrase to establish your a vegan, if so. There's even the section on car repair. But the section I flipped to simply by chance was called "getting closer". Ah. More specifically. On sex. So in my best Italian I read the phrase "I only will do it with a condom." Laughter permeated those who spoke Italian. Andy and Tim were wondering what was so funny. Anyway, the book goes into explicit phrases of how to express oneself during a sexual encounter. Even on how to suggest such an encounter. After the laughter subsided we were treated to jeep ride to remote vineyards and a tour of the new barrel room, wine making facility and bottling area. Upon returning to the palace we learned that the office crew was very curious about my phrase book. One older woman was so taken by it she wanted to make photo copies so she would know how to say such things in English.

We were supposed to have a short stay at Ciacci and then get on the road early to Siena. But we were having too much fun. Oh. The wines. We tasted a Syrah that was in its third year of release called Fabius. Great. A bit of oak cause of a tough vintage so Jenna admitted that the prior years' were more expressive in terms of terroir. But the wine was viscous, complex and very interesting. The Brunello. It's actually only one of two wines that received the coveted "three glass" rating for 1998 Brunello. For 1998, I think it's the best Brunello value - probably available in the states for $50. Photos: (1) Jenna from Ciacci at the wheel of the company jeep; (2) Andy Shernoff as photographer but still in that bass playing pose seen on stage with The Dictators. (3) Paolo Bianchini with Jenna and the woman who smiled so much but I forgot her first name, oooops. (4) The new Slovenian Oak Casks at Ciacci's new facility.

Italy: A Passion For Brunello di Montalcino

Mon, 20 Oct 2003 20:42:42 GMT

He's a sturdy and tall man with large hands. Tufts of grey hair flapped in the wind as he talked to us about his vineyards and the improvements and expansion he's made in the last two years to his cellar and winemaking facilities. Half of his shirt was untucked and peeking out from under his cream colored corduroy jacket, and while he looks a bit more like the farmer he's been for the last 15 years, his command of the English language and passion for the finer things in life revealed a bit of his past as a successful executive in the shipping business.
Piero Palumucci along with his wife Elisabeth are proprietors of Fattoria Poggio di Sotto, a small farm and winery south of Montalcino overlooking the village of Castelnuovo dell'Abate. Poggio di Sotto consists of 12 hectares of vineyards and about 1,400 olive trees. Piero and Elisabeth produce about 2,000 cases of wine annually including Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and Moscatto, a desert wine that he makes simply for his family and friends. Oh. And of course, he makes a grappa. He stands tall and proud wielding a toothy smile as he explains how his vineyards and the valley that is their home run from 200 to 450 meters above sea level. Insisting this valley is the best place to grow Sangiovese in Montalcino Commune because of the Southern and Eastern sun exposure. The grapes get more hours of sun and the valley cools nicely in the evening. The perfect climatical recipe for great Brunello. The Palmucci's office, winemaking, storage and bottling operation are under the beautiful stone farmhouse they call home. A new addition has enabled Piero to move the barrel storage out of his office. Using the latest and best in equipment, Piero is sure to point out, he has created a classic gravity flow winery using modern techniques. The man wreaks with passion as he walks us through his cellar explaining that he drops more than half of the fruit in the vineyard and thereby possibly producing less juice per hectare than any of his Brunello brethren. He pulls the protective plastic cover over his moto table. Explaining that no one else in Montalcino has this expensive table. His eyes focused and assured yet his smile disarming as he explains that 4-5 workers hand pick grapes from the clusters of the Sangiovese Grosso grapes picked from his meticulously managed vineyards. We walk over to a small two-wheeled machine. This is the pump that he uses to pump the wine after fermentation and during barrel racking. It's expensive, Piero assures us, but worth it. Why? Because it's more gentle on the wine. To tell you the man is passionate about quality tells you nothing about Palmucci. He's obsessed with quality. And he's obsessed about controlling the process. He has the ability to produce much more wine than he currently does. He will increase slightly. But to produce much more will endanger the quality because it will be more difficult to control the process.

His barrel storage cellar is large and the large cellar dwarfs the small inventory of Slovenian oak casks. There's room for expansion. But then I notice sprinklers on the floor in the center of the room. Palmucci explains this is for controlling the humidity. He ushers to a control panel on the wall and makes a few adjustments then the sprinklers eke out a fine mist. He smiles as we gaze across the room. I wanna be a kid and run through the fine mist, but I restrain myself as Palmucci leads us to the bottling room. Once again Palmucci explains this is the best bottling machine available. And it's expensive, of course. But his comments shouldn't be confused as boasting, he assures us that if he buys cheap he'll just have to replace it. Best to buy for the future. This man wants to produce great wine -- for the duration. We see what appears to be a simple mechanical contraption shoved in the corner of a hallway. It's not so simple. It's a device that allows him to place the bottles after bottling and corking so that they sit upright for a few days while the cork expands and sets. Then he simply tilts this device like a wheelbarrow and the wine bottles rest on their side until ready for release. Which for Brunello is 5 years after harvest. Tasting the wine and we can revel in Palmucci's passion for quality. We're drinking the 1998, not a great year for Brunello. Not like 1997. But that may have been an anomaly. We learn later that the weather for the last five years has not touched 1997's amazing conditions. Palmucci coats the Riedel glasses with his 1998 Brunello. Then pushes the stem toward me and tells me to smell the glass. I like this process I see used quite often in Tuscany. He does the same for Tim then pours us each a glass while explaining that Sangiovese is never dark purple. And warns that if we see Brunello as such, chances are it is not 100% Sangiovese. Sangiovese is never dark. The wine is a bit ruby a bit brick red. Fruit and floral notes surround a core of herbs and spice. On the palate it's delicate, smooth with soft tannins. The finish is long. I swirl it my mouth as the juice blankets my tongue, teeth and roof. Hmmm. This is good. From Palmucci's perspective as he nestles the bottle between his two large hands is of me smiling. I see him waiting in anticipation for a response. An emotion. Some sign from me that I'm enjoying the wine. I nod. Speechless. What am I supposed to say. I bring the glass to my lips again while looking directly in his eyes. Nod again. he smiles. "For me the pleasure is making something other people will enjoy," Palmucci breaks the silence. For Tim and I, he's achieved that. To be sure his wine is not cheap. Yet it's not the most expensive in Brunello. But it has to be. His detail and expense into his total hand operation is costly. And he refuses to compromise. We throw our purchases of wine and olive oil in the back of the Punto and drive down the long dirt road passing hectares of vineyards with clusters of grapes dotting the ground. A sure sign that Palmucci isn't joking. He's a serious a winemaker as I've ever met. Photos: 1) Poggio di Sotto wines, olive oil and grappa; 2) Piero Palmucci, perhaps the most serious and passionate producer of Brunello di Montalcino; 3) the home, office, winemaking facility and cellar for Fattoria Poggio di Sotto; 4) the cellars of Poggio di Sotto - note the sprinklers used for controlling humidity; 5) the view to Castelnuovo dell'Abate from Fattoria Poggio di Sotto.

Tuscany: The Ultimate Wine Preparation & Presentation

Wed, 15 Oct 2003 17:29:24 GMT

It's about the wine. And it's about the food. Welcome to Tuscany. For most people when they think of Italy and wine, images of Chianti wrapped in wicker bottles perhaps come to mind. Or maybe the simple but excellent Pinot Grigio. But if you're passionate about wine Italy conjures images of rolling Tuscan hills and the other great wine regions of Piedmont, Umbria, Lazio, Alto Adige and more. Perhaps the most famous wines come from Piedmont and Tuscany. So for this journey Tim and I decided on Tuscany - home of Chianti, Brunello, the so-called Super Tuscans and of course Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Traveling for me brings the opportunity to immerse myself as much as possible in the culture of my destination. I do my best to learn the basics of the language without bastardizing it too much. To be sure, French will always escape me. And the French don't care anyway. So why should I. It's also important for me to engage in conversation and friendly smiles with the local people -- regardless of the language barrier. And of course, I want to sample the tastes of the local cuisine; especially indulging in the fresh and typical ingredients. There's no exception in Italy. And I'm doing my best to broaden my experience. To live. As if I did. Here. While the pomodoro (tomato) is at the end of the season, I can't help but to search for the ultimate bruschetta -- where it was born, in Tuscany. And every town we walk through it's hard not to fall victim to the good (but perhaps not always so good for you) salami and other cured meats. The list goes on. We've found that the porcini mushrooms are very much in season and fresh. Match that with Chianini beef and you're on the way gastronomy heaven. The list goes on. Truffles too are in season as is wild boar. The local Sienese pasta (Pici) with any number of sauces utilizing fresh ingredients delight the palate. And no matter where you are in Italy, every day is a good day for gelato. Outstanding. But allow me to diverge. And for those perhaps less passionate about wine, I hope not to bore you. If anything, I hope to enlighten or entertain you. There's no question that Tim and I have been indulging in both casual Trattoria's and the finer restaurants in the towns we visit. Inasmuch as the food is outstanding, what I've noticed is that in most cases the wine presentation is different than I've head elsewhere in Europe and the United States. After ordering a bottle of wine, and for Tim and I this can take 3/4's of the time spent in the restaurant as we labor over the excellent choices on the wine lists where we typically have been ordering both a bianca and rosso (white and red), the server rolls a small table (or in some cases when they're not on wheels, carefully picks it up) to the edge of our table. On the neatly white draped table usually rests several stems of finer stemware, a decanter and a corkscrew. The server presents the bottle and proceeds to put the corkscrew to use. After delicately pulling the cork off the bottle with much effort to not create a "popping" sound, he or she smells the cork. Upon satisfying the server's olfactory organ, he'll pour a small amount into a glass, then lift it to his nose then lips and tastes it. Now this part is not so unusual except for perhaps in the United States where rarely the server will taste the wine before presenting it to the diner.

It's now when the real passion for the wine shows in a Tuscan restaurant. The server then pours a small amount of wine into the decanter. Of course, if the wine requires no decanting then this step is eliminated. He then swirls the wine to cover as much of the surface of the decanter as possible. When satisfied he pours the small amount of wine from the decanter into one of the stems. Again he coats the inside of the glass with the wine and then like a careful chemist dressed in server garb he pours the wine into the next stem, and so on. Tim has now fondly referred to this process as "charging" the glass. Whatever it's called, it's welcomed. This ensures that any vagrant remains either light dust, pour rinsing after washing or whatever doesn't affect the aroma nor flavor of the wine. But my observation of this technique doesn't end in the restaurant. Several of the cantinas (cantina is a word for winery or wine cellar) we've visited for desgustazione (wine tasting) have used the same technique for presenting and sharing their wines. And I should note that the cantinas that approach winemaking seriously will use the best stemware, usually from Riedel or Spieglau, to present and taste their wines. Now you might think this is a bit overkill. But having experienced drinking wine from stemware that wasn't properly washed or sat on the shelf too long, you'll appreciate a clean and ready glass. What's more, if you use this process when drinking multiple varieties of wines from the same glass, you'll experience the new wine without the lingering aromas and flavors of the previous. Never use water to rinse a glass prior to pouring in something new. Always rinse with wine. Trust me. It makes a difference. Alright. Enough of the wine. For now anyway. I'll be sure to continue to share with you the tastes and flavors of Italy as we make our way from Montepulciano to Florence through the small towns of Tuscany. Stay tuned.

Photos: 1) classic Tuscan crostini with duck liver pate and vin santo jelly; 2) taglietelle pasta with rabbit and porcini muchrooms; 3) wine presentation: smelling the cork; 4) working server couple toasting Italy and its flavors with us in Montepulciano; 5) Tim examining the color and tasting Tuscan's finest product; 6) Tuscan wines for dinner decanted and ready to taste

Going To Italy

Tue, 07 Oct 2003 12:41:01 GMT

Been trying to tie all loose ends and catch up on work, phone calls, email and blogging. But it's no use. I'm still behind. If you've called, sent an email or otherwise haven't heard from me, I hope you'll understand that getting ready to depart the country for an extended time tends to weigh one down with laborious task detail. I hope to continue to catch up on email and blogging, so stay tuned. I'm flying into Rome. After a few days head to Tuscany and the central Italy coast. Then onto Florence before making a slow trek back to Rome. It's my first trip to the boot shaped country famed for art, food, wine, organized religion and a history long on legend. Not to mention home to the original Renaissance "men". I'll post some observations and hope to catch some interesting or inspirational momens on "disk". So tune in.

Wine. Wine Wine.

Tue, 07 Oct 2003 12:28:59 GMT

Many regular visitors to the Tavern have asked for more wine notes. And I've got to agree. It's not that I haven't been embibing in and falling prey to the sensual seduction of the fermented grape, I just haven't transcribed my notes and experience. No worries. I'll be sure to share my wine tasting experiences in Tuscany and elsewhere in Italy very soon.

Thinkers. Marketers. And Red Wine.

Tue, 22 Jul 2003 07:16:50 GMT

I know you're wondering. What's Allan writing about now? Thinkers and marketers. You probably can get your head around that. But Red Wine? Sure, the cat's been out of the bag that I'm a passionate taster and collector of fine wines and that I'll do most anything to weave a wine story into a blog post. Fair? But there's more. To be sure, marketing continues to evolve. Contrary to the thoughts of many of my marketing brethren, I don't believe there's a marketing revolution ready to erupt. That is, in terms of social software, networks, emergence etc. Instead, I see that it's simply a marketing evolution. Not that it's any less important, I think it's important to be understated, rather than hyper when discussing such things -- a statement or testament to where marketing might -- or even should -- be headed. For example, I've been writing a somewhat regular series on corporate blogging. This in inspired in part by the popularity of blogs, the wonders of RSS and media attention. In turn, many organizations and individuals are scrambling to make sense of what some find to be trendy and others find as a trend to watch. No matter what, fact is blogs are here to stay. Question is, will they always be called blogs? As marketing evolves, blogs will too. As a sidebar, Rick Bruner is attempting to keep a running list of business or corporate blogs. You can view the current lineup here. And like a good red wine, I find the best to be appreciated at a young age where they exude youthful characteristics and are playful, fruity and while a bit immature, very cute and beautiful. As a red wine moves to adolescence it begins to show distinction, true character and color. This paves its way as it matures into a complex, rich and distinctive character. True to blogs. Like a young red wine, they're fun. They're fruity. And they're immature. At least from a marketing or business perspective. And to some extent a personal or "conversational" perspective. As for thinkers. There are so many great thinkers on the web. I've had the pleasure of communicating with some innovative and curious thinkers. And I look forward to hearing from more. If you haven't checked out these recently, take a peak. Because blogging as marketing and business process is evolving: Dina Metha | Stuart Henshall | John Moore | Christopher Ireland | Rick Bruner

Oklahoma is OK...for frozen pizza or wine?

Thu, 17 Jul 2003 21:38:43 GMT

I stumbled upon this article about farmers trying to stimulate Oklahoma tourism and to leverage its farming heritage. But wine? That's going to be a hard sell.

[...] compared the forming of a cooperative of wine growers to the Value Added Products closed cooperative in Alva (Oklahoma) which has helped add value to wheat growers' products by making frozen pizza dough. [...]

Now there's an analogy.

Do What You Love. Love What You Do.

Sat, 12 Jul 2003 02:39:21 GMT

simple concept for complex times....

Sitting on a Delta flight somewhere over Arizona or Utah is my guess. No issues getting out of DC this morning. Nice to have the extra evening. My brother John and I pulled a couple corks on some great wine while he tended the grill with some awesome steaks.

1999 San Giusto Recolma, Tuscany
1995 Plumpjack Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

The wines were phenomenal. Both of them. Though at first the Plumpjack scared us. It had sat out a couple days outside the cool temperature of Jon's cellar. We decanted it and stuck it in the fridge. Half an hour later and after indulging the Recolma we feasted on the tasty Plumpjack - made by Nils Venge of Groth and Saddleback Cellars fame.

Staying the extra night. It was the right thing. And it was thing I wanted to do. So when I say the following post on Dan Shafer's blog while reviewing my RSS feeds here on the plane I had to repost and quote what is a great philosophy and one I'm committed to in my personal and professional endeavors and pastimes.

[...] In 1960, a researcher interviewed 1500 business-school students and classified them in two categories: those who were in it for the money 1245 of them [^] and those who were going to use the degree to do something they cared deeply about [^] the other 255 people. Twenty years later, the researcher checked on the graduates and found that 101 of them were millionaires [^] and all but one of those millionaires came from the 255 people who had pursued what they loved to do!

(From The other 90% by Robert K. Cooper, Three Rivers Press 2001 [Thinking About Computing]) [...]

I know many people choose professions in the legal, medical or finance category because of the money -- not out of passion. Or in some cases it's because of expectation -- someone else's. I've always been amazed by this. I say pursue your passion. Whether the money follows or not, it's best to be happy, smiling and rewarded. And to a new friend I met this week, I send this post and message and hope it strikes a chord.

Photo: nieces and friends sharing wagon ride to Atlantic Ocean beach in Southern New Jersey (l to r) Caitlin, Samantha, Emily (niece #1), Alexandra and Anna (niece #2).

1992 California Cabernet - Bryant Family Vineyard & Dalla Valle Vineyards

Mon, 30 Jun 2003 08:40:05 GMT

Both of these wines were tasted on June 4, 2003 at my home in Southern California. They were tasted prior and during a home grilled meal of Spencer steaks, grilled peppers, rosemary/basil Yukon Gold Potatoes with sprinkled with fleur de sel and grilled asparagus with slight reduction of olive oil and balsamic vinegar and light shavings of fresh parmesan cheese. (click image for larger photo)

1992 Bryant Family Vineyard
This wine is the first vintage of what has become perhaps a member of the elite first growths of California joining its elders of Ridge Montebello, Joseph Phelps Insignia, Chateau Montelena Estate, Georges de LaTour and arguably a half dozen others. Until the past year the wine was made by winemaker rock star and goddess Helen Turley. The same hands and palate that have crafted some of Napa's elite, hard to get and highest rated wines including Marcassin, Peter Michael, Colgin, Pahlmeyer, Martinelli and others. Though it seems Turley's status as Midas in the Valley is declining as Ann Colgin, Jayson Pahlmeyer and Don Bryant have handed her walking papers or she's left on her own due to irreconcilable differences. Instead, she's focusing on her Sonoma projects including her own label, Marcassin and leading the winemaking duties at the sparkling cider empire at Martinelli. The 1992 was the first year of Bryant Family. I bought this wine for $38 from my friend Dan Dawson, now proprietor of arguably the hottest and most innovative wine shop & bar in Napa Valley, Back Room Wines. As is Dan's best trait, is he gets to know his customers taste and palate preferences and sources unique wines at great value. Such was the Bryant Family. Just over two years later you couldn't find Bryant Family Cabernet for less than several hundred dollars, while finding its place on wine lists of the most elite restaurants at prices approaching $1,000. Dining in All Seasons Cafe in the fall of 1995, Dan twisted my arm and talked me out of ordering the Clos Pegase Hommage and poured the Bryant Family. By the end of the meal and a second bottle the next night at Auberge du Soleil in Rutherford, I was combing the valley for every bottle I could find. The fruit for this wine comes from vineyards high above the valley on Pritchard Hill not far from Chappellet. True to mountain fruit that wine is quintessential ripe, bold fruit with firm but sweet tannins. This 1992 had me worried. The argument for much of the higher alcohol, potentially overripe wines is that they don't hold up for more than a few years. And while the French would laugh at me for calling an 11 year old bottle old, I can attest to tasting cabernet and other reds that were held just a little bit too long. These days I see to be realizing the old adage of the wine collector who's only regrets were that he should have drank his red wines younger and his whites older. Pulling the cork on the Bryant revealed an extra long artistically crafted piece of bark stained deep dark purple, almost black, with no seepage showing a great seal and indicating perhaps prime storage conditions. The price tag of $38 still on the bottle was a reminder of the old days of search and gather the best of California Cabernet. On the nose the Bryant showed a ripe core of black cherry with barely a hint of cedar and dried berry. After 30 minutes the dried fruit and earthy quality faded while aromas of berry erupted from the glass including seductive sweet notes of kirsch. On the palate the wine showed great balance, immense multi-story structure with sweet tannin, black cherry and berry finishing long with caramel, anise and raspberry. Supple and velvety the wine danced like it did in its youth. I had no idea that the fruit would last the 11 years. I'm confident this wine will last another ten years and I'll bet that fruit will barely subside. No disappointments here. 1992 Bryant Family Vineyard - 93 points. 1992 Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon
Clearly in the same league as the Bryant Family back in 1992, Dalla Valle is Cabernet Sauvignon offering from the Vineyard that earned cult status after its flagship Cabernet Fran-based wine, Maya, fetched the highest price ever paid for a wine at the Napa Valley Wine Auction and paved the way for subsequent auctions where cult wines become the hottest bid and sought after California wines in the world. Some might argue, but I believe this auction and high priced offering of a Robert Parker sweetheart shuffled in the era of the cult-wine. An era that has seen better days. The 1992 wine was made Screaming Eagle winemaker Heidi Barret. The wine was also deep in purple color but didn't have the opaqueness of the Bryant Family. Cork was solid, firm and exhibited signs of excellent storage. On the nose great aromatics revealing toast, plum and deep blackberry notes with a core of mineral, lead and graphic with an alluring spice quality. On the palate the wine surprised me with its crisp acidity, bright fruit flavors and a finish that goes on for nearly a minute with flavors of brown sugar, spice and blackberry. What a great wine. 1992 Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon - 95 points.

While reading these reviews you might think I liked the Dalla Valle by a factor of two points better than the Bryant. But I urge you to read these reviews not with assessing what wines I like better, especially when I do these comparative reviews. Here I did two 1992 leading California Cabernet-based wines. I chose these wines for their pedigree, vintage and curiosity. Yes, I enjoyed the Dalla Valle more. But the likely hood of ever drinking these two wines side-by-side is one in a thousand. Both wines are great examples of California cabernet and released at what will likely be looked back in history as a turning point for California winemaking. I hope to revisit both of these wines in another ten years. In the meantime, if you have an opportunity to taste or drink either of these wines, you won't be disappointed. And if you do, drop me a note. I've love to hear your thoughts.