How I learned to love Greece again
A
disastrous Greek island holiday led a broken-hearted Louis de Bernieres
to write his Cephalonian bestseller. For the first time, he exclusively
reveals how the country 'wounds' him but still holds him in its thrall.
(
From The Oberver Books Section of March 20, 2005)
I meant to blog this at the time, but didn't get around to it then or later. I stumbled across this article again last night, and was moved all over again by Louis de Berniere's love-hate relationship with Greece, familiar I think to all of us Philhellenes who have spent any amount of time here, and his wonderful insights into Greek life and culture, and the impact of history on Greek (and Turkish) mythology and thought.
De Bernieres on Greek music (which I love, as he does):
I was to discover that for years Greece had enjoyed the best quality
popular music in the world because all the best composers were setting
to music the lyrics of the best poets. It was something that cannot be
imagined in Britain, where our composers are all up their own backsides
trying to impress other composers, and the poets won't or can't write
lyrics. Through the music I got to the poetry - Seferis, Sikelianos,
Cavafy, Elytis, Ritsos, Gatsos - and their writing has become so much a
part of my intellectual and literary framework that I cannot now
imagine living without it.
De Berniere's opinion on the dire effect of the Greek Orthodox Church (so relevant in view of the
recent school text book row):
For a golden age, modern Greeks look back not to Periclean Athens but
to Christian Byzantium. The Greek Orthodox church still has an absolute
monopoly on historical and metaphysical truth and the people have a
sentimental attachment to it. It's mostly myth but the Greeks remain
profoundly grateful to the church for saving their traditions from the
savage Turk.
De Berniere's absolutely fabulous put-down comment to the Greek Communist Party (in the context of his troubles with the Greek left wing regarding what they felt was inaccurate reading of the history of the Civil War - quite unwarranted, in my opinion, and as he says, cooked up by The Guardian):
Greek communists have a yobbish habit of painting slogans and acronyms
in huge ugly red letters in all prominent places, including beauty
spots, and that's how I know they don't really love their country.
Lots of interesting insights into similarities and differences between Greeks and Turks (the most recent book of his that I have read,
"Birds Without Wings", beautifully and accurately charts the tragic events and outcomes of the Asia Minor Catastrophe), and leads to this hopeful thought:
It must have occurred to most Greeks that when Turkey finally comes into
the EU they will once again have the right to take up residence in
Turkey. I remember weeping when I saw on television the destruction of
the Berlin Wall. I think it will happen to me again when I see footage
of Greek families moving back to Izmir, and Turks buying holiday homes
in Crete. I will be wounded by joy, I suppose.
Do read the
entire piece!
