Friday, November 15, 2002

For Thursday 14th November At Banjul we bid farewell to our crew who had been in the Islands with us for the past week. They had provided magnificent service during the flight down, we were not the easiest set of passengers they had flown! They attended the service of Remembrance with us and learned a great deal about what the vets had accomplished. Kerry in particular was a favourite as we developed a system of teasing her during the pre-flight safety announcements. When she had to show us where the emergency exits were located, the whole passenger cabin mimicked the movements. So by the fourth time of doing it she knew what was coming and we would wind her up about that. Boy, could she blush. We were subject to a patience-sapping delay at Banjul when a flat tyre was discovered on the plane, only to find the airport had no nitrogen and no compressor. The options were to use the non-inflated spare tyre the aircraft carried, or to wait for an inflated spare to be flown out later in the day. After a while a local garage was contacted and they brought a compressor in, but it proved not to be up to the job, they needed the tyre inflating to 190 psi. Some international airport! The day was saved when the crew of an Illushin passenger jet came across to help. Without being able to speak a word of English, and with no help at all from the inept and clueless airport staff, they managed to get our tyre pumped up. There were fifteen minutes to spare as our crew were approaching the point where flying hours limitations would have meant they could not operate our flight. The delay was very hard to endure under the circumstances. I spoke to Morgan O'Connell about the mood of veterans and the difficulties of coming back to reality. He did think there would be a sense of euphoria that would diminish, but the experience that everyone had undergone and the friendships renewed or made anew should stand everyone in good stead. It occurred to me that this setback might actually prove beneficial in bringing the vets back to earth with a bump, but in the company of their mates and not alone. At this point it is perhaps worth mentioning those people who have contributed to the success of the pilgrimage. Rick Jolly and Denzil Connick have personally contributed enormously, and their drive and enthusiasm has made this happen in the first place. But we should also acknowledge the active participation of Rosalie Dunn, Debbie Ford, and John Romo, all under the leadership of Major General Malcolm Hunt, Chairman of the Pilgrimage Committee. I would also add to this list Nigel Hawks whose contribution the vets are shortly to discover when they see the vast number of high quality photographs he took during the pilgrimage. By high quality I mean that many of those photos are simply of an award-winning standard and will form a valuable record for posterity. The media who came with us have been very supportive and sensitive too, and Anna Pukas particularly welcome for her part in the support we received from the Daily Express. And of course grateful thanks to my hostess, Arlette Betts who was absolutely perfect. Her catering was of the highest standard, fit for a Prince in fact, as was proven on Sunday, of course. Gradually the aisles filled up as people stretched their legs and exchanged views. One view, expressed with great sadness, was regret that the Royal Navy did not participate more. HMS Leeds Castle was briefly seen at the Memorial services, but the captain didn't hang about afterwards and there was no armed honour guard. In times past these would have been routine. Rick Jolly came on the tannoy for a final address. He spoke of the need to decompress after a "return to that state of happiness and relaxedness that you have not enjoyed for twenty years." He mentioned that the aircraft was carrying five tons of baggage compared with three and a half tons on the way down. There may have been a sizable chunk of Mount Longdon and other features flying north with us, hopefully destined for the Stone From Home cairn being assembled at the Falklands memorial Chapel in Pangbourne. He also reminded us that many of us had served our entire military careers preparing to fight a war against the Soviet Union, and how ironic it was therefore that a Russian crew should get us out of a fix. He assured us that their reward was plentiful and liquid. George Howarth, MP for Aldershot, spoke next on behalf of the non-combatants to thank the veterans for the privilege of joining them. The message he would be taking back to Parliament was that if the nation expects heroism of the kind displayed by the vets, the nation should properly recompense and take care of those who were wounded in body and spirit. Gerry Sutcliff MP, a member of SAMA who should have been with us as well, was unable to as he was being held hostage at Buckingham Palace. It is a little-known constitutional oddity that some Members of Parliament must remain at Buckingham Palace as surety against the Monarch's safe return from visiting Parliament for the official State Opening. Denzil Connick told us how he remembered flying into Brize Norton as a stretcher case twenty years ago. He tried desperately to see his family, but they were held back while the walking wounded met their relatives, and finally he was able to meet his in private out of sight of the cameras. He remembers feeling then a deep sense of pride at making it back tinged with sadness at leaving so many behind. The Pilgrimage had helped him, as had his previous visits and each time he goes back, he told us, it keeps getting better. David Devenney, now a priest, wanted to put the Pilgrimage into context and cited a reference in the Bible to facing giants. The veterans of 1982 had done just that, in terms of numerical superiority and the distance over which they had to travel to engage the enemy, but they had done it and should thank God for that. As we approached Gatwick, Paddy Burton again pumped up the bagpipes and gave us Amazing Grace. He played again to lead us off the aircraft and through Customs and Immigration. All around there were hugs and farewells being expressed and promises to stay in touch and meet again. The last tune I heard from Paddy was "Auld Lang Syne." 6:43:51 PM     For Wednesday 13th November Up at FIDF at 7:30 with my baggage, the place is teeming with people - pilgrims and many locals to see us off. We get into the usual speeches and presentations. Lots of good humour and touching moments. The local leadership team are called forward to receive our thanks for a job exceedingly well done: Gary Clement, Terry Peck, Jimmy Moffat, Bernie Eccles, Dave Morris, Philip Miller, Les Biggs, Gerald Cheek, and Frazier Wallace. Rick Jolly then read out a poem written by Chris Duggan during the pilgrimage: "We came back to your Islands Gone over twenty years [^] To remember those hard days That caused many tears.. "We came back to your Islands And are now known as Vets With many hard memories But no sad regrets.. "We came back to your Islands You were impeccable hosts You gave us the strength To help bury our ghosts.. "We came back to your Islands But as our group departs The Falklands will always Hold a place in our hearts.." Next on stage were Teraaka Middleton and Tiphanie May from the Community School. The school had staged a variety show and raised £400 for SAMA which they had a cheque to present. Rick then presented them with rucksacks, SAMA have bought one for every pupil. They usefully incorporate a pocket for a mobile phone which raised a laugh, there being no mobile phone service on the Islands. Dave Brown then presented another of the limited edition prints of the Parachute Regiment plaque to FIDF, and another display case featuring cap badges from every unit that sailed on the Norland to the Falklands Museum. Gary Clement presented a fountain pen and a Churchill cigar to Terry Peck. Rick then formally presented the silver South Atlantic Medal medallions to the Governor who received them on behalf of the Falkland Islanders. Drawing parallels again with Malta and quoting the SAMA motto, "From the Sea [^] Freedom", Rick said they represent "what we as veterans think about you and our love for you." The Governor received them and promised they would be displayed in a public place. He then presented Rick with an 'original copy' of the declaration of Freedom of the Falkland Islands to the British Armed Forces. He also said that despite much practise he still cannot do a good Jim Davidson impression. On to the busses. A lot of difficult farewells but the atmosphere was eased on our bus with a top-notch stand-up routine from Laurie Bland who on behalf of the 601st Regiment of the Argentine Army (he said) welcomed us on board for the Runners-Up party. As we pulled away, Islanders we passed waved farewell, and policemen stopping the traffic for us saluted. A final, and very nice touch, was the convoy drove through Stanley, along Ross Road and past the cathedral and, for a final time, past the 1982 Memorial. At Mount Pleasant Airport we all posed for a group photo before boarding the plane. Another nice touch was to find more Falkland Islanders at the departure gate waving flags and giving us another fine send off. During the flight, Jacko came on to the tannoy to tell us two pieces of news. One, he and others had been considering SAMA's next big project and had come up with Project Corporate. This was a proposal to establish a house in the Falkland Islands that could be used by up to two SAMA families at a time for visits. The proposal would need formal approval at the next AGM, but in the interim, Falkland Island councillors had been consulted and indeed Norma Edwards had immediately donated a house to SAMA for the purpose. So the project now is to renovate the house and bring it up to standards suitable for disabled people. A remarkable development by any means. The other matter concerned the shooting down of a Skyhawk during the war. This was claimed by two Navy ships, but it was always contended that a Marine, Marty Walkingshaw, had shot it down with his GPMG machine gun. To investigate the matter further, Jacko and others went to the site and a local farmer took them to the wreckage. Inspecting it showed there were no 40mm cannon holes as would be the case if it had been shot down by the Navy, however there were countless 7.62mm holes [^] the calibre used in a GPMG of course. The evidence is conclusive that Marty alone shot the aircraft down and the official record should reflect that remarkable feat of arms. I have to add a personal comment here. Jacko, in my view is absolutely amazing. I'm full of admiration for the work he does as SAMA's Welfare Officer and his reports at AGMs are punchy and hilarious as he regales us with his battles against officialdom. Keep up the good work, Jacko. We had a brief, uneventful, stop at Rio to refuel, many of us hit the souvenir shops, I don't know if I'll ever pass this way again. Take of was fun as we bounced down the very bumpy runway, but eventually we lifted off and we had an uneventful flight on to Banjul. The atmosphere in the cabin seemed quieter than the flight down, perhaps people are tired, but perhaps they are full of thought. 6:42:55 PM     For Tuesday 12th November This morning is overcast, cold and miserable. Not a very cheering prospect for a trip up in a VC10 this morning, and we check the flight is still on before we head for Mount Pleasant Airport. In the event, it was a brilliant experience. The RAF regularly practise air-to-air refuelling and we have been invited aboard. We take off and do a low fly-past of Goose Green, and then head for the sunnier areas of the Falkland Islands, it's not all covered in cloud. We do a low fly-past of Stanley, we fly along A4 alley, so-called because that was the route the Argentine fighter bombers took to attack the fleet in San Carlos water. It is quite amazing to see the extent of it and follow it in the air. There is a rock ridge that runs for miles that the aircraft could hide behind for the approach. Squadron Leader Richard Muse was our host for this trip, the RAF did us proud today. The afternoon was spent visiting the shops and the Jetty Centre, built to welcome cruise ship visitors to the Falkland Islands and show them some of the sights and attractions. Tourism is now a major economic activity in the Falkland Islands, you can find out more about it on their web site, www.tourism.org.fk. All across Stanley were pilgrims doing last-minute shopping. At Government House this evening I stood in the conservatory and watched a couple of PARAs walking up the path dressed in jacket and tie for the Governor's reception. How very different I though, to events of twenty years ago on these same lawns. I chatted with many of those attending, and there was much talk about how people have changed during the days we had been here. Dave Brown, who is SAMA North representative told me he found a tape of Beethoven's Emperor piano concerto on Goose Green after the battle. He had listened to it many times since, and today he took it back and listened to it again. While he was doing that, Paddy came over a hill playing "Flowers of the Forest" on the bagpipes. Dave said every time he had heard that tune, he always cried, but not this time. He has found inner peace. I chatted to some Scots Guards. They had earlier presented a cheque for £120 to 1st Stanley Cub Scouts to buy a tin of brasso, a cleaning cloth and some sports equipment. The Guards had gone up to Tumbledown when they first arrived in order to clean it up and lay a wreath. They were pleased to see a small white cross placed there, but amazed to discover later that the cubs go up there every June 13th to clean the monument and remember the fallen. Their cub leader explains what happened and then they have a minute's silence at 11am. So the Guards held a bugling competition, anyone failing to play a simple tune had to pay a £5 fine. Those taking part included nor just Scots Guards, but Welsh Guards, Navy and some locals too. Later there were formal presentations, which seems to be a feature of this trip. Dave Brown presented a hand painted plaque to the Governor. This featured the unit crests of 2 and 3 PARA, the Victoria Cross, and it was signed by Frieda McKay and Sara Jones. Dick Jones presented him with a bottle of Airborne Whisky, 1992 vintage, allegedly the last one remaining. Back to the digs for a barbecue and to pack my bags. I seem to have far more than I brought with me when I was expecting to go back with less, having brought plenty of gifts. It is very hard to believe that this is the last evening. 6:41:48 PM     For Monday 11th November There is another opportunity for me to visit Ajax Bay today, a small party is going the back way as it were, over the mountains and down the northern side of East Falkland to San Carlos where another Kelper will be standing by with a boat to take us across the bay. I ride with Steven Aldridge, who was one year old at the time of the war, and the other land rover is driven by his Dad, Ken, and carries Terry and Tony Melia, and Adrian Tudway. Adrian had a bigger adventure than the rest of us to get here [^] he missed the flight down. But being a resourceful ex-Royal Marine he hot-footed it to Brize Norton and got a seat as a stand-by. There are numerous other groups heading off in different directions, according to the priorities of the pilgrims. Many still have objectives, either to lay wreaths or to re-visit battlefield sites. A large group is going to Longdon and many of them will walk back down into Stanley. FIGAS, the Falkland Islands Aviation Service have laid on a full day of free flights for pilgrims to give everyone an opportunity of seeing some of the outlying islands. These are necessarily short trips as they are over-subscribed and FIGAS are doing their best to get everyone up. We leave Stanley on the main road to Mount Pleasant Airport, but soon turn off and pass Goat Ridge. We are deep in historic battlefield territory, Longdon, Two Sisters, Tumbledown, and Harriett are all around us. Along the roadside is the wreckage of several Argentine helicopters, among them a Chinook, which we stop briefly to inspect. Further on, the views are again stunning as we enter a giant bowl of flat land surrounded by higher ground extending before us for dozens of miles. How daunting it must have been for the troops to emerge at the far end and gaze forlornly at the miles of tough ground they will have to trample across on foot in order to reach their objectives. Teal Inlet was a major staging post along the way, set in a very picturesque hollow in the hills, nestling beside the water. It might have been an ideal location-shoot for the Lord of the Rings had they not already decided on New Zealand. We stop to admire the view and notice figures by a cross close to the water's edge. So we go to join them and find a memorial to those killed in the closing battles of the war, and who were temporarily interred here. It is another party of pilgrims placing a wreath, and we pay our respects too. The SAMA Pilgrimage is impressively thorough. We continue on our way, it is hard to appreciate just how big the Falkland Islands are without seeing them for yourself, and there is such a small population outside Stanley now. Eventually we leave the gravel track and climb the hills. The boggy peat ground makes progress slow and difficult at times, I can easily imagine Marines and Paras sinking knee-deep in hidden pools of dank water. Once wet, they could not dry their feet for weeks afterwards. Finally, we reach the crest and again we have a view over the whole San Carlos area. Ajax Bay is important to me, it is a long held ambition to visit and I never thought I would see it for real. Ajax Bay is as important in the story of the Falklands war as Tumbledown or Two Sisters or any of the battles. It is the scene where countless lives, both British and Argentine, were saved having been brought back from the battlefields often desperately wounded and near to death. They are not countless numbers really as Rick Jolly, the doctor in charge, kept meticulous records. This is the field hospital that came to be known as the Red and Green Life Machine and, because out of necessity it was located alongside a massive ammo dump, the Geneva Convention did not permit the painting of red crosses on it. Shortly after we arrive at the old jetty, a rigid raider comes round the headland and Paul Anderson drops off another party and picks us up. Five minutes later we arrive at what remains of the jetty at Ajax Bay and are greeted by Gerald and Doreen Dickson who give us a torchlight tour inside. In truth, there is not much to see, there is the hole in the wall where the parachute retarded bomb entered during an air raid. Because it wasn't practicable to evacuate the hospital to defuse it, it was left in-situ with Rick sleeping next to it to reassure his apprehensive staff. It is satisfying to see the place however. Adrian goes off and finds the trench he lived in for a couple of weeks before 45 Commando finally moved forward. He and I then head off back to Stanley while Tony and Terry head for Goose Green. Along the way we stop and have a close-up look at a particularly large and viscious looking stone run. From close-up it is even more difficult to imagine crossing these laden with equipment, or even in the lead-up to an assault on one of the mounts, I have difficulty just stepping on to one to take pictures. That evening I take my hostess out for a meal at Malvina House, in appreciation for accommodating me, and because she deserves a break for catering for Prince Andrew last night. Stanley is really buzzing this evening, and we spend a lot of time in the bar chatting with everyone. 6:40:42 PM

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