Toasting Courage...
May was an extraordinary month for many reasons, food and wine among them! And now, well into June, the parade of flavors and color continues. Summer's bounty already seems endless, and what better way to celebrate the goodness of the earth's richness than by capturing summer’s flavor. With everything new again, the days long, and spirits high, it is, indeed, a time to celebrate. Among the things on my list: courage.
Granted, it may seem a bit odd to be talking about courage when it comes to food and wine. But, there is a certain leap of faith we all take when it comes to preparing a meal... or selecting a wine... Now, though, the leap of faith includes launching "There's a Chef in My Kitchen" as my culinary consulting business... for real... for me... and, ultimately for you.
I finished my "day job" on Friday. On Saturday evening, over steaks and wine, chocolate soufflés and port, my friends and I celebrated, toasting courage and moving into a life that is mine and simply waiting to be created.
Our dinner wasn't one of my more stellar efforts. I was, after all, slightly preoccupied. I forgot the tomatoes for the salad, and then forgot to make the crispy onions to top the steak... But, it still proved to be a flavor-fest and a lively reminder that the food – no matter how spectacular – is always the backdrop. What matters most is the company that has gathered around your table.
Rich, succulent, and vibrant were the words for the evening. The menu was fairly straightforward with hints of Asian flavors, Polynesian brightness and the wonderful heat of Thai.
For starters, I prepared Pan Seared Scallops with a Madeira-Mirin Sauce and a crunchy almond, caper and shallot topping I took from The Elements of Taste. The tomato and onion salad with basil balsamic vinaigrette, is a redo of a Hawaiian Kula Tomatoes and Maui Onions salad from Roy’s Feasts from Hawaii cookbook. I sliced Vidalias, gently sautéed those with minced garlic and shallot, and then added balsamic vinegar and basil. A minute back on the heat and then set aside, the flavors melded to create a marvelous basil balsamic vinaigrette. I tossed the mixed greens with the vinaigrette, and had I remembered the tomatoes would have mounded the dressed greens on top of generous slices of beefsteak tomatoes.
For the main course we selected beautiful Black Angus steaks and served each with a generous splash of honey mustard sauce. Had I remembered to make the crispy onions, they would have topped the steaks! On the side, Thai potato croquettes and steamed green beans rounded out the meal. For dessert, Double-Chocolate Soufflés that are so amazingly perfect – the right amount of sweet and bittersweet; frozen ahead so all you have to do is pop them in just before you begin opening the port and pouring coffee.
So, there is much to be grateful for and much to anticipate. With summer’s harvest in full stride, and an abundance of friends for support, the leap of faith probably isn’t much more than a little hop into my kitchen where good food and lasting memories are waiting to be created.
Pan Seared Scallops with a Madeira-Mirin Glaze
From The Elements of Taste, © Copyright 2001 by Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky (Little, Brown), p. 32 and 196
Madeira Mirin Glaze
Ingredients
½ cup Madeira
½ cup soy sauce
1 cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar
½ cup sugar
½ cup finely diced peeled ginger
Combine all of the ingredients except 1 tablespoon of the ginger in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce, stirring occasionally, to syrup, about 5 minutes. Refrigerate until needed and add the remaining tablespoon of ginger before serving.
Chef’s Notes: Although the recipes suggests a 5-minute reduction to achieve the syrup-like consistency for the glaze, the total time in my kitchen was closer to 25 minutes. Be careful not to boil the glaze, as you will scorch and burn the reduction.
Topping for the Scallops
3 tablespoons of butter, divided
½ cup slivered (raw) almonds
4 tablespoons small brined capers
2 shallots finely sliced
Sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon chopped parsley for garnish
Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the almonds and toast, stirring frequently until fragrant and golden, about 1 ½ minutes. Transfer the almonds to a plate and wipe out the skillet.
Add another tablespoon of butter to the pan and heat over medium-high heat. Add the capers and crisp. Return the almonds to the pan and add the shallots. When they begin to color, swirl in the remaining butter. Season with salt and pepper. After topping the scallops, sprinkle the parsley over the topping.
Scallops
adapted from The Elements of Taste, © Copyright 2001 by Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky (Little, Brown), p. 32 .
½ to 2/3 pound sea scallops, rinsed and patted dry
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
Sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
Melt the butter and heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over high heat. Get it good and hot. Meanwhile, toss the scallops in a bowl with the salt and pepper. When the skillet is ready, add the scallops and sauté – the flesh of the scallops is delicate, so resist the temptation to move them around – until they are golden on one side, about 2 to 3 minutes. Flip them over and cook about 2 minutes more.
Plating
Spoon the glaze onto a serving platter or tray. Place the scallops onto of the glaze; spoon the topping over the scallops (garnishing with the chopped parsley).
Tomato and Vidalia Onion Salad with Basil Balsamic Vinaigrette
adapted from Roy’s Feasts from Hawaii © Copyright 1995 by Roy Yamaguchi (Ten Speed Press)
Serves 6
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 ounce pancetta, diced
¼ teaspoon finely minced garlic
¼ teaspoon finely minced shallot
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
6 large fresh basil leaves, julienned
1 large Vidalia onion julienned
3 large, ripe beefsteak tomatoes
Sea Salt
Freshly ground pepper
6 cups washed and destemmed spring mix greens
Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan and sauté the pancetta, garlic and shallot over medium high heat for about 1 minute. Add the onion and heat for an additional minute or until onions begin to soften. Remove from the heat and stir in the vinegar and half the basil. Return to the heat for about 1 minute more. Remove from the heat. Stir in remaining basil. Set aside until ready to use.
Slice each tomato into ¼ inch slices and arrange 3 slices on chilled salad plates in a circle, overlapping each other. Season with salt and pepper.
In a large bowl, combine mixed greens and basil balsamic vinaigrette and toss until well mixed and greens are well coated. Mound tossed greens on top of tomato circles.
Honey Mustard Sauce
Adapted from Roy’s Feasts from Hawaii © Copyright 1995 by Roy Yamaguchi (Ten Speed Press)
¼ cup peanut oil
2 Vidalia onions chopped (about 1 cup)
8 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup chopped carrots
¼ cup chopped celery
4 bay leaves
5 black peppercorns
1 cup port or cabernet sauvignon
1 quart Veal stock
1 cup stone ground mustard, full strength
1/3 cup honey
10 tablespoons chilled, unsalted butter, chopped
Heat the peanut oil in a heavy saucepan and sauté the onions, garlic, carrots, celery, bay leaves, and peppercorns over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the port or cabernet, and add the stock, mustard, and honey. Reduce the liquid to about 2 ½ cups, stirring frequently until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain through a fine sieve into a clean sauce pan (discard the solids) and set aside until ready to serve.
Whisk in butter, a little at a time, and incorporate thoroughly.
Thai potato croquettes
Adapted from Roy’s Feasts from Hawaii © Copyright 1995 by Roy Yamaguchi (Ten Speed Press)
Serves 4 to 5
½ cup Thai Peanut Dip (recipe follows)
4 cups Mashed Potatoes
2 eggs
1 cup milk
½ cup flour
2 cups Japanese (panko) bread crumbs
1 cup peanut oil
In a mixing bowl, thoroughly combine the peanut dip and mashed potatoes. Whisk the egg and milk together in a separate bowl to make an egg wash. Place the flour and panko on separate plates. Form the potatoes into 2-inch patties about ½ inch thick. Dredge in the flour, then in the egg wash, and finally in the panko, making sure the potatoes are well coated.
Heat the peanut oil in a large sauté pan, and pan-fry the croquettes over medium heat until both sides are crispy and browned. Remove and drain on paper towels.
Serve each croquette with a drizzle of Thai Peanut dip.
Thai Peanut Dip
2 cups unsweetened coconut milk (use the cream and the liquid)
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
¼ cup brown sugar
¼ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
2 kaffir lime leaves (optional)
¼ cup julienned fresh Thai basil
¼ cup red curry paste (preferably Mae Ploy brand Matsaman curry paste)
½ onion chopped
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 tablespoon minced lemon grass
1 ½ cups chopped fresh cilantro
Combine all the Thai Peanut Dip ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a simmer. Cook gently over low heat, taking care not to boil the mixture. When the sauce begins to thicken and the oils from the curry rise to the surface, adjust the sugar, soy sauce and vinegar if necessary, and remove from the heat. Let cool and discard lime leaves (if using) before serving.
Chef’s Notes: The dip takes about 25 minutes to ½ hour to cook and thicken. If using the dip as a dip, rather than a sauce, splash the top of the dip with fresh lime juice before serving.
Double-Chocolate Soufflés
Bon Appetit, January 2004
8 Servings
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 cup whole milk
8 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
6 tablespoons sugar, divided
1 ounce unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1/3 cup whole milk
4 large eggs separated
¼ teaspoon salt
Butter eight ¾-cup ramekins or custard cups; dust with sugar. Arrange dishes on rimmed baking sheet.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in heavy medium saucepan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons flour; whisk until mixture is bubbling, about 1 minute. Increase heat to medium-high. Gradually whisk in 1 cup milk. Cook until mixture thickens and boils, whisking constantly, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Add bittersweet chocolate, 4 tablespoons sugar, and unsweetened chocolate; whisk until melted and smooth. Pour soufflé base into a large bowl. Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally.
Whisk egg yolks into soufflé base. Using electric mixer, beat egg whites and salt in medium bowl until soft peaks form. Gradually add remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, beating until stiff and glossy. Fold ¼ of whites into soufflé base. Fold in remaining whites in 2 additions. Divide soufflé mixture among prepared ramekins. (Can be prepared ahead. Cover and refrigerate up to 2 days or freeze up to 2 weeks; do not thaw frozen soufflés before baking).
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bake soufflés uncovered on rimmed baking sheet until puffed and centers move slightly when baking sheet is shaken gently, about 17 minutes for fresh or chilled soufflés or 22 minutes for frozen.
Serve chocolate soufflés immediately with sweetened whipped cream
7:21:45 PM 
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