The Critical Course...
When it comes to a multi-course meal, perhaps the most important course isn't a course at all. The amuse bouche-- or "happy mouth"-- sets the tone for the entire meal. It is the calling card for the chef's vision, and should, if executed properly, establish the benchmark for the meal to come. For the those gathered at the table, it must create a mood of desire and anticipation. It is only a small bite. But if the amuse bouche fails in its role, a chef-- no matter how talented-- will spend the rest of the meal trying to recover.
For a Tasting Menu I created and served last week, my amuse bouche set the theme for the remainder of the meal: unusual flavors that combine to create extraordinary results. My selection? Watermelon Thai-Spiced Soup with Crab. Watermelon is just beginning to reappear in the area. Still not quite as sweet as those we recall from the dead of summer, they are nevertheless, a suitable platform for this inspiring soup.
It is critical that you dispel any immediate thoughts you have about a sweet cold soup, as the name "watermelon" no doubt suggests. This soup, served hot, conveys more of the Thai flavors infused in the watermelon base. The addition of the sauteed aromatics and the lime juice changes the bright pink color of the watermelon to a warm, creamy tomatoey color. Nary a mention that it is watermelon, your guests most likely won't know. I just think it's too much fun to watch the utter disbelief as they eat those few intoxicating bites trying so hard to find the taste of watermelon!
The addition of jumbo lump crab-- a garnish-- is so elegant in its simplicity: sweet lump crab tossed with a bit of olive oil and cilantro. The cool flavors of the sweet crab pair magnificently against the lemongrass, ginger, shallots, garlic and the subtle heat of serrano pepper that convey the flavors of Thai, and excite the palate.
A small 5 or 6 ounce serving of soup, with a tablespoon or so of the crab garnish, gets the meal off to a delightful start. You will know you hit your mark when the conversation shifts to the food and the flavors. Of course, when you serve something like this as an amuse bouche... you best be prepared to follow it up with a delicious meal!
Watermelon Thai-spiced Soup with Crab
For soup
5 cups coarsely chopped seeded watermelon (from a 4-lb piece, rind discarded)
1 fresh lemongrass stalk
3 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1 1/2 tablespoons mild oil, such a canola
1 small hot green chile such as Thai or serrano, finely chopped (including seeds-- to taste)
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste
3/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
For crab
10 oz jumbo lump crabmeat (2 cups), picked over
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 1/2 tablespoons mild olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
Accompaniment: lime wedges
Make soup:
Purée watermelon in a blender until smooth and transfer to a bowl. (Don't wash blender.)
Discard 1 or 2 outer leaves of lemongrass and trim root end. Thinly slice lower 5 to 6 inches of stalk and then mince, discarding remainder.
Cook lemongrass, shallot, ginger, and garlic in oil in a 2-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat, stirring, until aromatics are pale golden, about 5 minutes. Add about one third of watermelon purée and simmer over moderate heat, stirring, 5 minutes.
Remove watermelon mixture from heat, then transfer to blender along with chile, lime juice, and salt and blend until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids).
Add remaining watermelon purée and blend briefly. Season soup with more chile, lime juice, and salt if desired, blending if necessary. Pour soup through a sieve into a bowl, pressing on and then discarding solids. Chill soup, uncovered, about 2 hours if serving cold, or reheat in cleaned saucepan.
Prepare crab:
Toss crabmeat with cilantro, oil, and salt.
Divide crab among 4 soup plates, mounding in center, and pour chilled or hot soup around it.
Note: You can prepare the soup 1 day ahead. Cover after two hours of chilling. Pour into a clean pot, whisk vigorously over low heat to warm through.
Recipe first appeared in Gourmet July 2004
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