Updated: 3/1/2005; 8:41:26 AM.
There's a Chef in My Kitchen
Culinary musings of a passionate gourmand, chef and social sommelier.
        

Sunday, February 27, 2005

Patience is often its own reward.  Last week, I had the pleasure to experience that first hand.  After testing two recipes for a wonderful dinner party I was preparing for, I wanted to immediately post my results.  I chose to wait, for fear of spoiling the surprise for my guests.  I am glad I waited, as several guests visited my virtual kitchen in anticipation of the evening! 

Bitter Orange Ice Cream and Chocolate Cloud Cake:

When I choose a menu to serve it is always done with an eye toward flavor and elevating taste.  This can be a quirky kind of thing -- especially if you've never worked through the recipe you are suggesting.  But sometimes the very nature of the recipe suggests extraordinary flavor.  My instincts take over and I simply know that it will deliver the flavor, the taste and the texture that I am in search of.  After all, each course -- every component to a meal -- should have its own personality, yet still retain balance and harmony with the overall menu. 

Bitter Orange Ice Cream and Chocolate Cloud Cake provided a light, luscious conclusion to a 7-course tasting menu I prepared last week in the home of our region's wine writer.  Surprising light for ice cream, with the summery freshness of orange, the Bitter Orange Ice Cream isn't an ice cream in the traditional sense that you make a custard, churn and freeze... and then wait patiently for it to firm up.  No.  This recipe is about as simple as it can get.  Zest, juice, combine, whip and freeze. 

The Chocolate Cloud Cake is an exquisite counterpoint to the lightness of this ice cream.  Airy in texture, but rich in chocolate flavor, the slight hint of Cointreau in the cake brings the two together in an unusual, but delightful balance. 

Both recipes have been adapted to suit service for 12 (quite an undertaking if you've never attempted it -- service for 12, that is... not adapting recipes!) and are from Nigella Bites, by Nigella Lawson.  Copyright 2002 by Nigella Lawson. 

Bitter Orange Ice Cream
Zest of 1 ripe navel orange, then juice
2 ripe limes:  zest of one and the juice of both
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons confectioners sugar
2 1/2 cups heavy cream
Chocolate Cloud Cake cutouts (recipe follows)

Place the confectioners sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer, fitted with the whisk attachment.  Add the zests and the orange and lime juices to the confectioners sugar.  Stir to dissolve the sugar and add the heavy cream.  Whip the contents of the bowl until it holds soft peaks and then spoon into silicone molds for individual servings.

Rap the molds on the counter to remove any air pockets.  Using a pastry scraper, slide the long flat edge over the molds to create an even surface.  Cover with cling film and place on a baking sheet.  Freeze until firm about 2 hours.  Remove from molds and plate with Chocolate Cloud Cake Cutouts.
Makes 12 to 16 individual servings, depending on mold size.

Chocolate Cloud Cake
Intensity, then relief, in each bite.

9 ounces bittersweet chocolate, minimum 70% cocoa solids (Scharffenberger recommended)
1/2 cup unslated butter, softened
6 eggs:  2 whole, 4 separated
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1 scant tablespoon Cointreau
grated zest of 1 orange
9 x 13 Baking Pan

For the whipped cream topping:
2 cups heavy cream
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Unsweetened cocoa powder for garnish

Preaheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Line the bottom of the baking pan with parchment paper.  If your pan is non-stick, proceed; if not, melt some butter and gently brush the sides of the pan with the butter.

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, or in a large heat proof bowl over simmering water.  Add the butter and then gently whisk to combine.

Beat the 2 whole eggs and 4 egg yolks with 1/3 cup of the sugar, then slowly add to the chocolate mixture, whisking to combine.  Add the Cointreau and orange zest.  Combine.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk the 4 egg whites until foamy, then gradually add the remaining sugar and whisk until the whites hold their shape, but are not too stiff.  Lighten the chocolate mixture with a dollop of egg whites, and then quickly fold the remaining egg whites into the batter.  Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes, or until the cake is risen and cracked.  A cake tester inserted into the middle will come out clean.

Cool the cake in its pan on a wire rack.  As it cools, the center of the cake will fall and the edges will become beautifully cracked and rough. 

Service:
Remove the cake from its pan.  Rough edges and cracks are to be expected and is one of the textural delights of this cake.  Using round cookie cutters, gently cut out rounds of the cake, taking care to preserve the cracked surfaces as you remove the cake from the cutter.  Place on a chilled dessert plate.

Whip the cream until soft and then add the vanilla.  Continue whisking until the cream is firm but not stiff.  Dollop on top of the cut outs.  Using a tea strainer, gently sift the unsweetened cocoa powder on top of the whipped cream.  Place a serving of the Bitter Orange Ice Cream along side and serve immediately.

Serves 8 to 12, depending upon the size of the cutters used.

both recipes adapted from Nigella Bites, by Nigella Lawson.  Copyright 2002 by Nigella Lawson.


7:48:33 AM    comment []

© Copyright 2005 Donna Marie Zotter.
 
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