Fontina Cheese Ice Cream with Sherry Vinegar Syrup and Marcona Almond Nut Brittle
One of the great joys of cooking is being able to essentially pull together different delicious components and build a dish-- or a meal. Sugar High Friday - Let's Go Nuts and the Marcona Almond Nut Brittle was the start of a magnificent component based dessert. Yes, there was nut brittle, and even some red wine poached dried figs, but the starring role was held by the Cheese Ice Cream. Yes, that's right. Cheese!
If you are paying attention, you've no doubt noticed that this little Italian inspired frozen custard appearing just about everywhere-- from Italian Trattorias to Spanish Tapas bars and now, finally Stateside, it has arrived in our restaurants and in the magazines! Perhaps that's what's so hot about this frozen little dessert. It is so undeniably European with the oh-so grown up flavor that is all about subtle, rich, creamy delectableness.
I spied the recipe in the January 2005 issue of Gourmet magazine, and having tried a similar recipe using Grana Padano cheese not too long ago, I was game for this one. Especially given my options for the cheese: Spanish Mahon or Danish Fontina. Mild in flavor and creamy in texture, I had a pretty good idea that this was going to amazingly good. But, then, Gourmet goes one step further. A drizzle of Sherry Vinegar Syrup. How could this possibly be less than divine?
I knew from my earlier test with the Grana Padano cheese that the secret to a delectable cheese ice cream lies in achieving a silky smooth, creamy custard before freezing. The only way to do that is by continuous whisking or stirring the custard once the cheese is added. You see, if the cheese is not fully incorporated into the custard you end up with a displeasing kind of textured ice cream. It is called "cream" for a reason. Whisk away. Then whisk some more!
My efforts were richly rewarded. The ice cream was dreamy and lightly flavored, creamy and nothing short of elegant with the Sherry Vinegar Syrup. Best of all, I made it for a dear friend who was hosting a dinner party. She loved it, as did her guests. So will you.
Fontina Cheese Ice Cream with Sherry Vinegar Syrup and Marcona Almond Nut Brittle
adapted from Gourmet, January 2005. Copyright © 2005, Epicurious Food and CondéNet, Inc.
Makes about 1 quart.
3 cups whole milk
3 large eggs
1/2 cup sugar
4 oz cream cheese, softened
4 oz Danish Fontina cheese rind discarded and cheese coarsely grated (approximately 1 generous cup) (substitue Spanish Mahón cheese if available)
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Special equipment: an ice cream maker
Bring milk just to a boil in a 1 1/2- to 2-quart heavy saucepan. Vigorously whisk together eggs, sugar, and a pinch of salt in a bowl until well-combined and ribbon like streams fall from the whisk. Add the hot milk in a slow stream, constantly whisking until combined.
Pour the custard back into your saucepan and cook over moderately low heat for about 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until it begins to thicken and lightly coats the back of the spoon. (On an instant read thermometer the temperature should register about 170 to 175°F). Immediately pour custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl, then add cheeses and vanilla, stirring until cheeses are completely melted and well-incorporated. Cover the surface of the custard with a round of wax paper and chill until very cold, about 4 hours.
Freeze custard in ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer ice cream to an airtight container and put in freezer to harden, at least 2 hours.
When ready to serve, remove the ice cream from the freezer at least 20 minutes before serving. The ice cream will be extremely hard and difficult to serve otherwise.
NOTE: Serve with Sherry Vinegar Syrup (recipe below). You can make the ice cream up to 1 week ahead.
Sherry Vinegar Syrup
adapted from Gourmet, January 2005. Copyright © 2005, Epicurious Food and CondéNet, Inc.
Makes about 1/2 cup.
1/2 cup Sherry vinegar
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
Bring vinegar and sugar to a boil in a 1-quart heavy nonreactive saucepan over moderate heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Reduce heat and simmer until slightly syrupy (bubbles will begin to thicken and slow) and reduced to about 1/2 cup, about 15 minutes. Pour into a heatproof bowl and cool completely.
Note: Syrup can be made 1 week ahead and kept in an airtight container at room temperature.
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